Manny: I got my Omnimill 20 years ago, and refurbished it 15 years ago, when it had to be taken to pieces to relocate it. Then last year (or maybe the year before…or the one before that !) I had the table, sub table and knee slides re-ground and the gibs re-surtfaced with something similar to Turcite. This work was done by Brian Caddy in Nuneaton (http://www.slidewayservices.co.uk) – recommended.

I replaced the vertical head bearings on my machine only a couple of months ago. Not difficult if you want to use 'ordinary' bearings, you can get away with fairly crude methods of pulling off the old ones and installing the new ones. But the Elliott specification for the nose bearings is that they should be 'matched for back-to-back installation' – unfortunately, when you include that phrase in your purchasing requirements, the bearing price goes up by a factor of 3! £150 for a matched pair, so you wouldn't want to install those using a hammer and drift!

That means rigging up a better system, and making a few collars, tubes and spacers to ensure that that the races are loaded correctly and evenly during installation on the spindle, and whilst installing the spindle into the quill. I had to make the necessary bits, so if you live in the north west of England, you would be welcome to borrow them.

The top bearing is a single deep groove ball race, about £25 for a good quality one.

Hi Cabeng,

I would be interested in borrowing you bearing installation tools where are you located, I am in Leeds, I already have brought the bearings unfortunately before reading this thread else I would have upgraded to taper rollers. My head is stripped and ready for the bearing installtion.

I am having to make a new bearing preload nut as the original one had come loose and had been spinning on the shaft and worn away the threads. I dont suppose anyone has the original internal thread size to hand do they ? as I am guessing a little at the moment.

Regards Mick

I just measured the model and the thread is 1 & 3/8 by 16 tpi whit form (55 degree). You might need to fiddle the thread diameter a little depending on the exact form you cut……

Mark

I can't remember exactly what the nut looks like but if you measure it up (don't worry about the thread details/internal diameter) and send me a sketch I will draw it up properly and send you a "proper" drawing showing what is needed.

Mark

Ian, that is a damn good idea!

Mark

Thanks Ian for the advice on threading, I will give it a go and let you know how it goes.

Mick