Try undoing & taking the leadscrew bracket off at the right hand end then try to unlock your leadscrew 1/2 nut as this drives through gears to your x feed, once you've taken the strain off it should help you to manually disconnect the 1/2 nut lever… check the 1/2 nut teeth, plus the gear teeth if you can see them as it looks like you have jammed them both together…. nothing ventured, nothing gained!

George.

If your 250 is anything like my 280 you may find that the sacrificial pin in the drive shaft has done its job and prevented any damage (pride excluded).

If so, then David's suggestion is a good starting point, and will tell you if the pin is broken, but is not going to fix it. However I can say that in this circumstance George's description is a proven approach. (Obviously this is hypothetical and/or happened to a friend).

If the pin is broken then remember to punch it out with the shaft removed. That will leave you with the problem of what to replace it with, I seem to recall that I turned down a piece of plastic that has stood the test of time.

I'd definitely try this before doing anything with the gibs.

Good luck

Mike

Hi Matt

Yes you should only have one of the 'speed' belts on at a time…

Hope you're making progress with the repair.

Regards

Garry

Hi Matt,

It's you still learning!

When threading you use the dial to syncronise the position. It is so you can release the half nuts when threading and move the carrage back to the begining of the thread so you start cutting at the same position.

Cheers Michael

I had this happen to me on my 250 too. To get the pin out you must have the pin lined up and it very easily knocks out. Warco supply new shear pins or you could turn a brass one. Don't be tempted to use a nail as a shear pin. If you try to drill it out and the holes are not lined up you could end up doing damage to the shafts.

Matt, the shear pin is nothing special, make one out of some soft aluminium……or brass as as a last resort…but nothing harder.

The dimensions of the shear pin is .125" x 22mm long. Just checked a few minutes ago and it certainly looks, feel and files like brass.

Two similar things happened on my WM250V:

1) I engaged longitudinal feed when I meant cross feed, with a locked carriage. It bent the shaft of the bed pinion and broke one of the keyed bushes in the headstock geartrain in half. I lived for a while with very sticky patches in the carriage motion every 3 turns or so. Eventually I found I could straighten the bent pinion shaft with the toe end of a standard crowbar and had no more trouble with it.

2) I ran out of travel on the crossslide once. The cross leadscrew shearpin did its job and bruk, but the broken end fell out into the apron gearbox, where it dropped into the toothgap of a pinion and jammed it solid. The oil was sticky enough to stop it falling out if I partially turned the mechanism. I had to disconnect the main leadscrew so I could remove the apron front and fish about in the gloom until I flipped the remains of the pin into the oil left in the apron – from where there was no prospect of it ever being picked up again as long as gravity still works as it now does. Then I replaced it with a new pin – very slightly bent to reduce the risk of part of it dropping out again. Problem fixed.

But I see you've got a mangled tooth on your bed rack. It would certainly be best if the rack were replaced. In my case the main leadscrew shearpin (see issue 1) above ) was made of steel, not the usual brass. If this is the situation on yours you might make a case to Warco to replace it.

When I failed to pay proper attention to all that was going on, crashed my Saddle into the Headstock.

During freeing off everything, and repairing found that the Leadscrew and Feed shaft were joined to their drives by ROLLPINS! The replacements are 5 mm brass, drilled through 2.5 mm. to weaken them

Hopefully, the next time that I make a gross error, the pin will shear rather than damage what is downstream of it.

HTH

Howard

I hope to hear from Warco this coming week.

They need to address the oil leak but more importantly how this happened, I have revisited everything I did and I cannot for the life of me understand how this happened.

As you can see from my photo the teeth are mangled and although not shown in the photo the drive shaft that engages with those teeth is bent resulting in only about 10 cm of free travel left and right before it binds up.

I had only just completed 2 manual cuts and so the carriage lock was not engaged nor did the tool post hit the chuck or headstock. I am at a loss what caused it, hopefully Warco can shed some light on it for me.