Hi Ian,

There is normally only a shoulder on the inner race to locate the rollers and not on the outer race.

I would not like to guarantee what type of fit you would get if you used the old outer race. It may not match the new rollers and is probably worn. Regrinding is probably not an option.

Paul.

Is there space with the bearing to turn a couple of collars to act as shoulders. What do the shoulders do?

I usually get my bearings from the Leicester bearing company. I'm in no way connected with them but always found them helpful and extremely well priced. They might be able to help.

Another thought. Is the collar external?

If so then you could make retaining plates and fit them to the castings enabling you to fit  collarless bearings.

Edited By Bodgit Fixit and Run on 11/12/2014 10:08:30

If you can, take the whole bearing to a bearing suppliers, they are in most towns and show them what you want. If it is not in stock they may be able to order it in for you. And it will be a lot cheaper too. I used to work for a company making bearings and they were sold for peanuts really so the wholesaler and retailers could make a good profit. Get an OEM bearing and it could cost you the earth. By the way bodging an old bearing with some new bits is a recipe for disappointment.

Ian,

Is your headstock the 'interesting' design featured on this page ?

[fourth occurence of the word Timken]

MichaelG.

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I think I might be tempted to make a pair of "Top Hat" adapter sleeves … Same external dimension as the existing bearings, and bored [with a 'stop'] to take a conventional Taper Roller Beaing assembly … Certainly worth checking what Bore and Outside Diameter combinations are available.

MichaelG.

Should never mix bearing assemblies, that was the recommendation ( order), unless things have changed. Maybe more accurate manufacturing will allow mix and match. Cost of bearings- yes wild variations. We used to sell replacement plummer blocks for £4-10s , bought in bulk they were 1s 9p. I have been told that the bearing factors can grind I/D and O/D to make "odd" sizes, I've never followed this up but may be worth enquireing if relevant. Making a sleeve and using standard bearings would seem the way to go.

.

In recent years there have been some useful variations on the theme of Taper Roller: It would be worth browsing around here for example.

MichaelG.

A light press fit is usually ok for taper roller bearings.

What size are the current bearings, as that may determine if a sleeve is possible as you have to retain the outer bearing half on a shoulder as well as the shoulder for the housing as it has to take thrust loadings.

Bob

Ian,

I just found this 'archive' of notes

There may be something useful in amongst them.

… I suggest you grab a copy in case it disappears.

MichaelG.

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P.S.  … a Google search for "60 mm od taper roller bearing" gives loads of results; so that might be a suitable size to consider.

P.P.S … Sorry, that might have been a little hasty … many of the hits are for 60 mm id 

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 12/12/2014 16:16:59

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 12/12/2014 16:22:02

It depends on why the bearings need replacing. If they are rough it's very likely that the outer race will have surface damage so it wouldn't be a good idea to reuse it. Michaels suggestion of a top hat adaptor for a bearing with a smaller OD would be a better approach.

Whatever you do you need to consider the rather unusual oiling arrangement that's used and make sure you still have the oil path.

You will also find that there is much useful information and advice available on the Yahoo Group "Atlas_Craftsman" although I think that the US made lathes, like my Acorn example were made without the removable bearing caps.

The spindle thread shouldn't be too difficult to fix. depending on how bad it is you may be able to clean it up with a thread restoring file. Failing that it could be turned down and a smaller diameter thread cut. No need to change the bearing diameter.

Russell.