Once you have the motor on the bench and using a scriber put scratch marks across both end shields to stator, two lots one end and single the other. Theses marks will help you when reassembling the motor, then its a matter of very carefully dismantling the motor. Its not at all difficult to dismantle a motor, its the reassembling, getting it to run smooth, hence the scratch marks. Brook often have 4 threaded through bolts with a 2BA thread each end. Be very careful when withdrawing the rotor not to scratch the stator windings. Very recently (maybe last week) some one on HERE has posted a series of pictures on how he located the STAR point, in fact there been several lots. You are looking for a destinctive lump, often at the non drive end, using a sharp knife open it up. If you have got it wrong look else where, its some times a bit difficult to locate . You can of course go to a rewind shop, they will know for certain. You will need some cotton tape, cotton string, three lengths of flexible wire and some air drying varnish, all available on the favourite purchasing site. Do remember to identify the new ends, but as always, there is away should you forget. John

Hello John,

I've done this twice, once on an American made motor of 1/2 HP, the second time was on a Chinese 3/4 HP motor, both single phase. I used Jim Cox's excellent WPS book for guidance and got it right both times.

Do be sure you are using high temperature varnish when soaking the windings and binding things up

Best of luck Brian

I did it on a RJH Ferret grinder, can't remember make of motor but British. I was warned off from using it on vfd by the manufacturers, can't remember why, something to do with stray currents comes to mind. However I converted it to run off a capacitor setup, which worked fine. The advice was to silver solder new tails after finding and separating the star point, must be to do with potential heat. I chickened and used soft solder, perhaps crimping with a proper tool would be OK

Back again John, The conversion article Star/Delta I referred to, was dated 5/10/2015 it contained excellent pictures, unfortunately I don't know how to get to retrieve it, perhaps some one will help out. John

Just wondered why you thought it was star connected? Yes, 400V, but could also be delta connected at 400V?

Look at the three leads, do they join with one or two winding wires? If one, star, if two, delta.

Place I worked had a big circular saw that you started up in star connection then switched to delta. I presume it was to reduce starting current on a high inertia (big circular saw) load.