Hello,

As Trevor said, I ran a cat5 cable from the house to the shed then plugged in an access point,

Dunno what the problem is using 3-phase. Although you may have "single phase" in the house, it's actually just one phase of a 3-phase supply. Powerline should work fine. Presumably the sockets and lights in the shed aren't 3-phase/(!).

I have a 300Mb Powerline system in the house now, as the British brick walls don't work well with wifi, unlike the majority of US houses that are wooden framed. If you get one of the dual Ethernet / wifi access point plugs, it will even clone the wifi in the house so that you can simply walk from the house to the shed and it will seemlessly change over from the router to the Powerline AP, same SSID and password.

Look at something like this TP-Link system, although the Powerline kits are generally interchangeable.

"if a powerline router can clone your house wi-fi then so can anyone else". Hmm, only if they sneak into your house and press the clone button on both units.

If you really are paranoid – or are actually developing national secrets in your shed then perhaps – you need to remove the internet router because somebody can hack that. At some point you have to stop taking yourself too seriously and get into the shed and do some machining.

But, if you insist, there are Powerline-only versions.

Edited By Muzzer on 25/08/2016 16:42:41

I would go for the cat 5 cable. You may need to make a lead up yourself. It's possible to buy the cable, plugs and a crimping tool to attach the plugs – bit messy without that.

It's possible to buy shielded cat 5 cable but as the ordinary stuff is all twisted pairs I doubt if you will have problems. I would probably use the thin stuff that they run round offices and factories as it will probably be easier to get through. It's grey and stiffer than the cable that is usually used to plug pc's etc.

John

–

If you can get a wired connection (cat5) into the shed the rest is fairly easy. You just need a redundant (I seem to acquire them regularly from my ISP) modem with a combined switch. Turn the modem off and just leave the wifi and switch working. You then have a fully functioning switch with both RJ45 plugs and fast wifi assuming you have a modern modem/router.

I have 4 running in my house and garden etc. Full coverage all over my spot which is great (just have to set-up access on each router) and it is all fast wifi. It's still not fast enough for the TV mind…. stuck with running a fixed line but the house was wired anyway when I refurbished the place.

Mark

You need an "access point" on the end of the cat5 cable in your shed. Note you can configure some routers to behave as an access point.

Les.

Les, That's what I was saying – "most" modern routers will do this even the ones specific to a particular ISP. You just need to search the internet for "how to do it" and you will be up and running in no time. So in summary, you need a bit of wire a spare router and some time with google!

Mark

#2 for the suggestion from Mark C to use a redundant modem / router / WiFi box on the end of a Cat 5 cable to make a local WiFi net for the shed. Most such boxes can be so configured but it may take a bit of Googling to track down the details of how to do it. I have a BT Home Hub 5 doing the modem proper and house WiFi bit with a Home Hub 2 slaved to it via 30 m of Cat 5 cable to give me WiFi in the workshop. Found the set-up instructions on the internet somewhere and printed them out but seem to have lost the reference. Works a treat. Same duct as mains castle and no interference issues that I'm aware of.

I ended up with 3 or 4 Home Hub 2 boxes for some reason. BT even sent me one out of the blue after I signed up for the old type Infinity (fibre) Broadband where a separate fibre aware modem was slaved onto the existing modem / router. Later got an automatic upgrade to a Hub 5 which is fibre aware.

Related point if you are with BT make sure you have a proper contract with them so any equipment faults get dealt with for free. For example if you are under contract and the router dies you get a new one for nowt. You can also wiggle your way into a free upgrade after a couple of years. Just because you are paying the (same) bill doesn't mean you have a contract running! I avoided having to pay for a new router after my first Hub 5 died because I reported it one day before the contract ran out. Two months later they tried to bill me for it which was when I discovered that I was no longer under contract! Much phoning and shouting before that was sorted. At a discount! Hafta say I never realised I had alimited time contract in the first place having simply upgraded from POTs over the years and simply paid the bill.

Clive.

The guys that wired my shed foolishly ran telephone 4 core cable instead of cat5 and espite theory i couldn't get that to work so I ran an exterior grade weatherproof cable overhead and simply plugged into a wifi router. It does mean the shed is on a seperate network to the house but the shed PC stays there so not an issue.

It should be possible to route through to the other network but I've lost that info.

I can remember the days [ just] when you went into the shed to make something.

Having read all the above posts it now makes me more aware that this forum seems to have the highest noise to signal ratio [ no typo ]

Edited By John Stevenson on 25/08/2016 23:07:19

Yes I have computers, CAD and CAM but no internet access.

Very easy to draw on one, post process it and transfer the file to the mill, lathe, router or laser cutter.

Why do you need the detraction of the internet ?