Why does the recommended method of levelling the bed always seem to involve shenanigans with paper sheets (standard thickness of course) or perhaps, for people here, feelers? With the attendant difficulties of "feel".

Why wouldn't a better method be to bias the bed upwards until it touches the nozzle (spring loaded piston) in four corners, lock it up there then set an appropriate gap in the software (where you could actually treat it as a variable)?

I can see that on an aluminum bed (uncovered at that) but is that really likely to be a problem on a glass bed with a brass nozzle? And if there were slight scratching of the glass, so what? Typical glass beds seem to fail sooner rather than later by "de-laminating" (not the right word – peeling off the surface). Particularly with higher temperature materials. I've already had to replace mine and others have done the same. And given the junk we put on them such as glue-stick etc which dries unevenly, the effect on the part isn't likely to be great (although I've found a better way with glue sticks).

To each his own on the paper feeler gauge. To me, it's like a wet noodle …. not to mention that local sources of (copy) paper bear no relation to the thickness that the printer manufacturer claims.

Edited By Bandersnatch on 09/12/2017 19:45:49