Could you add dimensions to your description, not least to ascertain if this could be made the old fashioned way. That would let me ( and maybe others) do some calcs about how to go about making said gear.

Sticking this in with the 3D printing stuff suggests that you're maybe expecting this to be made that way, rather than cut out of metal. What materials does this poorly gear run against, and is there a reason why a gear cut in metal would be unsuitable?

Rgds Simon

Depends on the size of the piece, but I'd imagined it made as two separate components joined together. The bigger problem is that 67 is a.prime number

Simon

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 14/12/2016 22:09:43

If it's scrunched once, will replacing it with a printed gear give a better life expectancy?

Info from the OP as to why it failed would help us devise a reliable fix please.

Simon

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 14/12/2016 23:45:09

Edited By Simon Williams 3 on 14/12/2016 23:45:35

Is the exact gear size critical of is it just for a fan etc?

You can get a 70t 0.5 mod delrin gear HERE for £1.89 and you get a few 9T ones in these sets for <£3 (unfortunately the largest gear is 56 teeth).

It should be possible to bond them together somehow

Nothing wrong with alum gears for the application by the sound of it, but given it's a compound gear it may be hard to fasten the alum gears together reliably, and it would be hard to make them in one piece. There isn't much room for c'sunk screws or other fasteners, and I am not thrilled about epoxy on alum to alum joints. Depending on press fits in joining two alum gears would be a little risky too.

It may be easier to make each gear in brass and soft solder them together. If one has a locating spigot fitting in a snug hole on the other, accuracy of centres will be good. A tiny bit of solder and a good flux between the parts and it will be easy to join them. Brass is as easy or easier cutting than aluminum. (ask the clock blokes)

The result will be much better tooth form and strength than a 3D printed plastic gear, and soldered brass gears are easier to join together than two alum gears for good strength and reliability.

Metal gears in the first place likely would have survived the thrown ball!

JD

Hi

I do have 2 x 3d printers at home. I have tried printing gears before but not had a great success in the smaller sizes. As already said in the thread the tooth definition does seem to disappear. If you put the STL file somewhere i would have a go but couldn't promise the result you may want.

I think you may be better going to the the 3Dhubs site. **LINK** It is a network of people with 3d printers who run jobs for people like yourself. You will be able to find a hub local to your location and maybe consult with them and obviously collect the result in person.

regards

Steve

Hi If you opt for Alu, mark the larger gear's 0 start or tooth 1 mount this on an appropriate bolt / axle place the second smaller gear and glue together so both 0 points are correct then remove axle / bolt, then drill and tap right through both gears either side of the center hole glue an appropriate size machine screw right through both gears, cut off the excess neatly each side of gear cluster and Roberts your uncle.

Rgards

Rufus

Some folks will know I'm reviewing a Dremel 3040 3D printer/using it for a 'first try at 3D printing' article. It only does PLA out of the box, but I've had a go at Bodge's gear, using his STL file.

Without spoiling the review, here's the result. It's less than 35mm across, so I'm impressed by this, if not by my photography. It's not imaculate, but I imagine it will work:

<edit> The larger gear meshes perfectly with stock 0.5 mod gears

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 04/01/2017 17:11:54