A friend brought this to me yesterday, not sure where he got it, but its a bit rough, and not all there. Think I'll be able to sort it out, and at least make it look a bit better. There are more photos in my album. The nearest I'v got is S9.  The bore and stroke are 1 1/2".  The flywheel 5" dia.  Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 05/10/2012 12:00:38

Edited By David Clark 1 on 28/11/2012 10:59:20

This one was also built many years ago, and by the look of it, by someone who was no craftsman. One example, at the rear end of the cylinder, a hole has been drilled and tapped top and bottom for holding cladding on the cylinder, that would be OK, except that the holes go right into the cylinder.

Its got parts of a govenor, and a feed pump. I'm in the process of making new excentric straps, one for the valve, and the other for the pump (maybe), the brass one that was on the valve (too tight), fits the pump excentric. I'm using a bit of cast iron, as I will for the guide rails for the ? slipper? on the con rod. I'll even have to make the oil cups for the bigend, and main bearings. The key for the flywheel will be a filing exersize, its not square.

The govenor is going to be a bit of a puzzle, I have the spindle, the pully, and the T shape bit the flyballs mount on, and the pully that fits the crankshaft. Oh yes, I'v got a tube of JB Weld. Ian S C

Jim, the holes are on the flanged bit the the rear cover bolts to, I can understand the bottom one being used for a drain cock, but not the one at the top. Most holes are 4 BA, there two 6 BA, the rest seem to be 1/8" Whitworth. I need to get into town, and get a 4BA die, I got two 4BA taps at the local secondhand shop for $NZ3 each, probably about 1 pound 50p, they are good quality, and may not have been used.

Making eccentric strap this afternoon, found something else, the eccentric has a ridge, more or less in the centre to locate the strap, there is a .0035 difference in diameter. The eccentric is a bit over 1 1/8", and I want about .0015" clearance, just a guess.

This will not be a 5 minute job. Ian S C

Apologys all, found the problem with the holes in the cylinder, the ones I was worried about arte in the correct place. The ones in the wrong place are the ones for the rear cylinder head, the six studs are in the wrong place, there should be two top and bottom, one each side (clear enough), but its rotated around 15*, so that the one at the bottom goes into the steam port. Should I plug them, and redrill, I'v a feeling I should, one of the stud holes go through the rear steam cock hole, This thing's a b****y nightmare, knowing my mate, he proberbly payed very little, if anything for it.

The piston is a loose (haven't measured it) fit, and has one groove about 1/4" wide, I'll pack that with teflon tape. Ian S C

I'm in the prosess of making a pair of piston rings, using a bit of old brake disc, just wondering about anyones sugestions about splitting rings, ould be ready for that tomorrow, all going well. Ian S C

Made new studs for the cylinder heads, the holes in the front head (crankshaft end), seem to have been drilled rather randomly, and don't really line up properly, I proberbly should plug all the holes and start over, but I did'nt. One stud into the front of the steam chest was stripped, and for some reason was near enough to 4 mm, so I tapped it 3/16" UNF, and made a stepped stud to keep the 4BA for the nut. So new studs back and front, little by little. I'v got to work out how to tackle the butterfly in the govenor. As for the cladding on the cylinder, I know sheet metal is normal, but would wood be appropriate for this type of engine? Ian S C