OK, last week found a guy who had bought one of the RS printers so went to have a look.

Machine is well build compare to the rest of the reprap machines but as I guessed it uses the same open source software as the kits.

I got him to print a small file I had which took 42 minutes and to be honest I wasn't impressed on the quality. Lacked square corners and furry in places with the layers clearly visible.

Having also seen and had a test print done by one of the UP printers, which incidentally took 25 minutes for the same part, bit the bullet and bought one.

Bought it from Cutwel [ yes correct spelling ] same price as everyone else but did get a deal on some ABS filament.

Set it up on the coffee table last night whilst relaxing with planning permission from her indoors. Very quiet, nearly silent and only a whiff of smell from the ABS but hey it's testing time.

Dead easy to setup, first print came out perfect [ pics later ] had a couple of problems on later prints getting started but it was down to me not following a procedure, once this procedure is picked up so far every print has come out OK.

So far printing off the spare parts needed in the event of a breakdown which are on the disc.

Done one spiral bevel gear which has finished up with an awesome surface finish.

Plenty of gizmo's to print if you fancy over at Thingiverse but what i have noticed is that in most cases the finish I'm getting is far better than the ones shown, presumably done on repraps ?

From what I can gather the secret of the UP's in in the software and the way it supports the work. One part i have printed is a clamp to hold the belt on the X axis and it has two small slots for the belt to go though.

It looked to have printed solid but when stripping there were two support pads keeping the two sides apart which when cooled easily pulled out.

Jason, the UP doesn't generate G Code,it sends a condensed version of the file to the printer and runs it from there.

Once you have told the part to print you can disconnect the laptop and do something else

Anyway, Pics.

Pics.

Some of the spares for the printer being done, all the small parts are belt clamps that in the event of a major crash, break.
Big bit is something to do with the feed spool.

The raft is clearly shown and the fuzzy bits are where it's changing from solid to support which is printed a lot differently.
The really fuzzy bits on the part bottom left are the supports for the holes so they don't collaspe.

Another shot of the same job. this is just after it finished printing and nothing has been touched.

Finished bits with the supports pulled off. Centre piece bottom left had two flat supports like packers either side of that L shaped piece that just needed a bit of help with a craft knife to poke out, not cut as they weren't fastened and stuck to the surface.

Now the obligatory bearing.

The UP 2 plus uses proper linear rails and ball slider blocks but does use timing belts.

Timing belts are not a problem with 3D printers and laser cutters as the process is non contact so cutting forces are low or negligible.

My laser cutter is also on linear blocks and belts and the repeatability is spot on.

I recently made some 8" rulers / rules / measuring stick / scales / [ delete as necessary if you are pedantic ] and whilst setting up i found the settings were too low and a repeat pass put the graduations / marks / sticks [ delete again ] spot on top of the rest.

An eyeball check over 8" from a Chesterman rule came out equal mark for mark which given I'm only working to 1/2 a mill with a pocket rule is good enough for the job.

Martin,

Will do later tonight when I get in

Sent from my I****

Martin,

I bought one of these, or very similar.

**LINK**

Can't find the exact offer because mine came with a rotary axis for engraving things like glass bottles.

Must admit not used it yet, in fact not even unpacked that unit.

These are the famous "ship from Portsmouth machines" which they do as i got mine within two days. Came very well packed and secure.

One problem with these machines is support comes from China and they do mess you about if anything goes wrong.

I did the sums on what else was available and pricing and worked out the the most expensive part was the motherboard which is also the operating system and even having to buy a new one at my cost it was still cheaper than the nearest alternative. One thing in my favour was I have had a lot of experience on commercial laser cutters and the setting up.

Mine didn't work out of the box but that was down to a plug on the power supply not being fully home. The optics were lined up as received so no setting up was needed.

I have had a problem with the water valve which needed tapping at first start up but eventually they sent a new valve. Still not fitted it as the original has started behaving.

Very pleased with this machine.

Peter,

Mine is on closed loop cooling, it came like that, unless it senses water flow it can't work and throws an error message up.

I run from about a 25 litre plastic tub situated under the bench the machine is on and run antifreeze because of where the machine is located, it backs onto a unused door to the outside and the vent is a 6" grille vent let into the door.