That's a good start Doc – nothing like getting prepared. I'm doing the same thing but not quite in the same quantity. Looks like we will both be starting new projects around the same time. Good luck with yours

Hope you get your lathe and mill sorted out successfully

Regards – Ramon

Yes as Jason says that's the one Doc – just make sure you mix it really thoroughly and homogenise it well – just stirring it in to each other will provide a much weaker material.

As said before it can be quite runny especially where fillets are concerned. A drop of this ''stuff' mixed with it will thicken it considerably. I don't know for certain if that has a diminishing effect on it's tensile strength or it's temperature resistance but it certainly hasn't been an issue on my D10 (on steam).

Regards – Ramon

Jason – I'm having real problems staying logged in – yes I tick the box but it is very intermittant. Is there something else I need to do?

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 09/11/2020 13:10:45

Doc, as you are aware microballoons are a filler – used them a lot mixed with F/G resin for fillets on C/L aerobatic model wing roots. The higher the loading in the mix the less JB you have. Definitely not the same as the silica. It's primary use is for making epoxy resins thixotropic. You don't use very much of it to get the effect of thickening. The 25 gm tub would last a lifetime

Ramon

Jason, if you are reading this, that's the fourth time I've had to log in today despite clicking the 'remember me' box -any thoughts?

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 09/11/2020 22:26:33

Ramon, if your browser is set to delete all cookies on exiting, that will also "close the forum door" each time, although you can probably exempt it in the browser settings..

If you have a boring head for the mill you could use that after establishing the correct throw but clamping the individual parts against fixed stops on an angle plate bolted to the face plate will ensure uniformity. You may have to drill and tap some holes for the stops and may not want to but if they are positioned uniformly and the stops made to suit they can be used for all sorts of future set ups.

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 10/11/2020 21:59:04

In the magazine I think he has soldered 3 strips of 1/2 inch bar together and then bored through them – so the outer two strips will have the correct profile.

By soldering 3 pieces of the 1/2" square stock together that will give you a distance from ctr of hole to "bottom" of the outer two pieces of 3/4" which is the required distance. Note that you may not quite have 0.500" stock but the 1/2" is not the critical size its ctr line to the notch that sits on the frame that matters. This notch would be best machined after JBWelding it together as you can't be accurate glueing to the cast surface.

Another option would be to do them on the cross slide with a between ctrs boring bar, a simple block to bring the blank to height and screw them to would make it fairly simple but I think the soldered method will be quicker.

Edited By JasonB on 11/11/2020 07:49:00

A simple pin set on centre line of the arc and another in the cylinder wall will locate the feet accurately enough while the JB sets, though I was underr the impression the mating area was going to be machined too.

Yes another way this op can be done, but as Jason says it would be best to machine the lower surfaces after bonding – done with the cylinder held on a mandrel the dimension would be both identical over both parts and importantly parallel with the cylinder bore too

You can make a simple 'tween centres boring bar of any size you want to suit the job. I have some made many years back from silver steel. They have a small flat on them where the cross hole for the 1/4 HSS cutter goes. By making the hole blind the flat area can be drilled and tapped for say a 6ba screw which helps move the cutter when very small movements are required. Remove screw, mic across flat and tool tip – simple maths gives the radius. There are other ways – inset adjustable carbide tips for instance but that above has served me well for a long time now – I much prefer to use 'between' centres for bores to eliminate taper.

Soft solder will be sufficient!

Ramon

This pic should help explain it better. The turned portion is to ensure the diameter is true to the axis of the centres.  Radius required is dimension plus .462 across tool tip and flat

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 11/11/2020 08:52:42