coffee cup Stirling

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coffee cup Stirling

This topic has 28 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 4 February 2016 at 17:32 by tom bates.

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17 January 2016 at 18:33 #221496
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
Hi all have decided to attempt the Jan Ridders coffee cup stirling engine and have downloaded the plans, to study them and work out a material list. more up dates to follow when shed times permit

regards tom b
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17 January 2016 at 18:33 #31113
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
17 January 2016 at 19:08 #221504
Neil Wyatt
Moderator
@neilwyatt
Good luck with it Tom.

Neil
19 January 2016 at 17:16 #221735
mechman48
Participant
@mechman48
Looking forward to seeing it Tom, I have the plans but have yet to get 'round2it'… although some one posted me a pic of a 'round2it' last year…

George.
22 January 2016 at 16:52 #222139
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
Hi all

have made a start on the coffee cup engine dispacer ends used some 'scrap' aliminium plate marked it out,made a mandrel to clamp rough the plates together and turned to size in lathe.some photos in album but unable to upload to this thread.Any clues please ?
22 January 2016 at 17:33 #222143
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
think i,ve got it .picture not in order.why are they upside down ?

Edited By tom bates on 22/01/2016 17:39:42
22 January 2016 at 21:32 #222163
Neil Wyatt
Moderator
@neilwyatt
Looks like you have taken them on a phone which rotated them automatically? This rotation doesn't always actually 'stick' to the file when its uploaded.

Neil
22 January 2016 at 21:45 #222167
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
Neil thanks for the prompt reply. I took these photos on my i pad should I be using a seperate camera to upload pics to avoid this problem ?
23 January 2016 at 10:51 #222204
mechman48
Participant
@mechman48
Hi Tom

I have had similar probs with pics; what I end up doing is to take the pic with camera / phone, save it to 'My pictures' album as JPEG then can alter it with whichever photo editing software you have… crop / rotate etc. I also resize all pics using 'FSResizer' to approx' 640 x 480 then 'save' , then I can use as needed to 'upload' to album, also saves a huge amount of space on your hard drive. Pics can also be resized in the reply box by clicking pic until it shades in blue then click again to get resize squares on the borders, alter accordingly then click again to embed… at least that's the way I do it, others may have different methods.

George.
23 January 2016 at 16:15 #222264
Enough!
Participant
@enough
…. and here's me thinking it was one of those new-fangled machines that Arc came up with – designed for ceiling mounting to save workshop space.
23 January 2016 at 19:11 #222296
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
Bandersnatch. if only they did i,d buy the mirror image tools to fit on the floor to double my shed size
23 January 2016 at 19:22 #222299
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
Mecman48 I,m doing something very similar to what you suggest,but on the posting i made today in what did you do today I posted 6 photos 2 were inverted and all were in the wrong order maybe i should be using alap/desk top to upload photos, all comment/suggestions welcome
23 January 2016 at 19:50 #222305
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
Made the 6 x18 mm spacers for the displacer cylinder today easy turning exercise (really?) only broke 1x2mm tap😢 so only took photo of a assembled displacer
24 January 2016 at 10:16 #222353
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Only problem doing the discs that way, you get a spare hole in the bottom one that you don't really need. A way around that in future, glue (PVA) the plate on a bit of wood, get a small steel disc with a centre hole in it, mount the wood either on a face plate, or a 4 jaw chuck, take the small disc and bring the tail stock up and sandwitch it against the aluminium disc.

Ian S C
24 January 2016 at 10:21 #222354
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Only problem doing the discs that way, you get a spare hole in the bottom one that you don't really need. A way around that in future, glue (PVA) the plate on a bit of wood, get a small steel disc with a centre hole in it, mount the wood either on a face plate, or a 4 jaw chuck, take the small disc and bring the tail stock up and sandwitch it against the aluminium disc.

Ideally the spacers around the displacer chamber should be of an insulating material, some sort of plastic. My LTD motor is held together with 12 x 5 mm Nylon bolts tapped into the top plate.

Ian S C
24 January 2016 at 12:15 #222368
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
Ian thanksfor the info, but the reason I did it that way was that my rotary table is too small to fit the displacer disc if I try to fit my 4 or 3 jaw chucks I do not have enough height to fit any tooling

with regard to the spacers I did consider making them from delrin but decided to stick to the plan. Might make delrin at a later date. Cheers Tom b
24 January 2016 at 14:22 #222380
Gordon W
Participant
@gordonw
I made the spacers from hardwood dowels and c/sunk woodscrews into each end. The spacing is not ultra critical and careful marking off should be ok.
24 January 2016 at 18:17 #222418
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
Thanks for the idea Gordon.Just an aside I was visiting one one of my companies site where they had to remove a door frame to install some new equipment, came away with lenght of mahogany 4ftx8''x5'' might make the dowels from this!

cheers tom b

p.s its big enough to make the displacer tube.(now theres a thought)

Edited By tom bates on 24/01/2016 18:21:12
24 January 2016 at 18:38 #222426
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
Had another idea if i turn the wood to the out side diameter of the displacer plates and machine the top and bottom of the disc to fit in the 2mm anular grove I ,d get a combined spacers and tube in a low heat transfer material,would this this work ? feed back would be appreciated
24 January 2016 at 19:04 #222433
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
Started the bearing stand
24 January 2016 at 19:19 #222436
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
finished the bearing stand jus t need to trim the thread to length
25 January 2016 at 11:25 #222510
Gordon W
Participant
@gordonw
No reason why a wooden tube could not be used, except for the obvious movement with temp. changes and water absorption. There are plans for one with a thick walled plastic tube. I would use the wood to stiffen up the bench, mine has an ex doorframe made in teak.
26 January 2016 at 11:00 #222646
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
There are a number of things you can make the tubular part of the displacer chamber from, my one is a piece of plastic water pipe , about 150 mm bore and 5 mm wall thickness. If you are any good at glass cutting, a section from a suitable sized bottle would be excellent. Perspex is good, either a tube, or a strip wrapped to a tube, and glued. A thick walled cardboard tube should work quite well, as would your suggestion of using wood.

Ian S C
26 January 2016 at 20:29 #222728
tom bates
Participant
@tombates28045
Gordon and Ian thanks for these suggestions they are appreciated. Have been out skip hunting over the last couple of days found several different diameters of plastic pipe of the approx. diameters a piece of delrin 4'' dia x7'm length,also aquired some large motor brushes 16x30x32 mm hopefuly I,ll be able to make the bearings and bushes from these when I get back in the shed

regards Tom b. ( should read 7'' not 7'm )

Edited By tom bates on 26/01/2016 20:32:39
27 January 2016 at 09:52 #222778
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
The advantage (?) of glass, or Perspex is that you can see what's going on inside, more important other people can see, they'll still be none the wiser but they will see the displacer going up and down.

Ian S C
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