Reaming

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Reaming

This topic has 9 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 16 March 2015 at 13:37 by Bob Brown 1.

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12 March 2015 at 20:20 #183035
Bob Brown 1
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@bobbrown1
I was puzzling over the best way to ream 16 1/8" holes 1.25" deep in the split axles and did a couple of test holes. Having done one by hand had a rethink, did not want to use the mill or drill as the reamer is quite small and the power of the machines is likely to break the reamer if it jams. So picked up the trusty battery drill/screw driver which has a clutch so set the clutch to min and reamed the hole, next to try it in the actual axle box.

Bob
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12 March 2015 at 20:20 #30523
Bob Brown 1
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@bobbrown1
12 March 2015 at 22:03 #183046
julian atkins
Participant
@julianatkins58923
hi bob,

i have quite a selection of reamers both machine and 'hand' and worn and pristine.

i would drill No.32, and then use a hand reamer with a tap handle on it on it. only go as far as the handreamer till it just emerges from the otherside. mark that side with a centre pop or whatever. insert the pins from the same end as you inserted the reamer. the pins will then be a press fit and located without any chance of them moving when inserted.

cheers,

julian
13 March 2015 at 12:01 #183085
Bob Brown 1
Participant
@bobbrown1
The drawing states "push fit not press fit", drilled the test piece 3mm which is 0.118" which is very slightly larger than No32 which is 0.116". I assume you are using the lead on the reamer to lock the pin in position, to get a push fit on the pins the silver steel pin need to be polished to remove a very small amount to get the pin to push rather than press in. As a note the reamer was a new SKF item will need to look to see if it mentions fit, the original post was more to do with using the battery drill to ream the holes when there are lots to do 16 at 1/6" and 8 at 7/32" and that's just on the main axle boxes.

I may see if it possible to make a tapping jig to hold a battery drill for tapping small holes as the clutch should help avoid breakages and it has fwd and rev.

Bob
14 March 2015 at 11:33 #183195
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Bob, DON"T reverse the reamer, unless you want to break it. Just keep turning in the same direction and pull the reamer.

Ian S C
14 March 2015 at 13:00 #183209
Bob Brown 1
Participant
@bobbrown1
Ian,

I was thinking of tapping as reverse would be handy to back the tap out.

I did know not to reverse reamers as I've done a few.

Bob
15 March 2015 at 08:46 #183271
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Bob, it wasn't really you I suggested not reversing reamers, because if you'v done the job before you would know, but some others who don't might think that powering in a reamer, then out again, well you know. I see your point about tapping, yes it would be handy.

Ian S C
16 March 2015 at 11:55 #183418
Bob Brown 1
Participant
@bobbrown1
Humbug! reaming has not been a problem, drilling different story one broken drill bit on the last hole! ordered some alum (Potassium Ammonium Sulphate) as I do not fancy making another axle box to see if I can dissolve it!

Bob
16 March 2015 at 12:22 #183422
Bazyle
Participant
@bazyle
Has teh first post in this thread been deleted? The post that explains what model, drawing, etc is under discussion. The first post seems to launch straight in with "the holes" as if we were mid way through a discussion.
16 March 2015 at 13:37 #183427
Bob Brown 1
Participant
@bobbrown1
It was more a general point regarding reaming rather than specific to a particular loco but in this case its a 5" gauge 2-8-0 "Nigel Gresley" hence the number of reamed holes three in each axle box 2 at 1/8" and other at 5/32" so that's 24 holes to ream.
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