Cast Iron query

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Cast Iron query

This topic has 11 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 10 August 2017 at 20:32 by Ian Skeldon 2.

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3 August 2017 at 12:37 #310149
Ian Skeldon 2
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@ianskeldon2
Hi,

A friend who is down on his luck atthe moment has asked if I could help him out, he has taken the front door off his old wood burning stove to give it a good clean and in trying to remove the glass he has sheered or snapped off one of the securing bolts, all of the others are ok.

I looked it over and it really does need something where the old stud/bolt was located to secure the glass to door seal so ignoring it isn't an option. He managed to remove the old stud/bolt himself but in doing so has opened up the hole and left it none uniform in shape and size.

Without wanting to make it a big task and costing me any more than was needed I ground one of my 8.5mm twist drills so that I could use a 3/8 unf tap for the full depth (only 3.5mm) my plan being to now ground a few of my cheaper 3/8 carbon taps flat to get to the bottom and then put a new bolt in.

I would like to ask if this seems the best way forward or am I unlikely to get a good result?

If a good result is unlikely, am I likely to be able to braze a bolt into this hole without distorting or damaging the door further, note that I don't have a brazing hearth just a very good plumbers brazing torch an dsome brass spelter and flux somewhere.

Thanks, Ian
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3 August 2017 at 12:37 #29733
Ian Skeldon 2
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@ianskeldon2
helping out a chap with his cast iron door
3 August 2017 at 12:56 #310151
Clive Foster
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@clivefoster55965
For a similar short thread issue, albeit not on wood stove, I restyled the thing and drilled right through to use ordinary bolts in both the damaged hole and in some other the others to give and adequately aesthetic arrangement.

If that won't fly due to external features I'd still drill right through to use either a bolt or stud and operate on the exposed end so it doesn't show.

Wood stove cast iron can be pretty horrible stuff to work with at the best of time. Some is pretty good but the worst is ….. Being well hotted up and cooled down a few 'undred times doesn't help either. Fast'n functional beats engineering nicety every time in this sort of situation.

Clive.
3 August 2017 at 13:20 #310154
I.M. OUTAHERE
Participant
@i-m-outahere
I would plunge a 3/8 slot drill in then machine up a threaded plug and braze it in place that way you get back to the original thread size that i'm guessing was 5/16 ?

3.5 mm seems shallow and i would not like to try cutting that thread !

A photo would be helpful.
3 August 2017 at 14:07 #310171
larry Phelan
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@larryphelan54019
Hi Ian,

I too would be inclined to drill right through and use a standard bolt,and drill the other bolt places as well,to make it look right. Remember,when an architect makes a cock up on one side of a job,he makes the same one on the other side,so no one notices ! Works every time !

PS Sometimes he even charges more for it !!
3 August 2017 at 20:15 #310252
John Reese
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@johnreese12848
Ian,

I like your idea. Thread the hole and make a threaded insert. You probably do not need threads all the way to the bottom of the hole. Either use a short insert or turn down part of the OD to the minor thread diameter.
3 August 2017 at 22:23 #310272
Ian Skeldon 2
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@ianskeldon2
Ah both good ideas, in trying the insert first I can still resort to drilling through and using a bolt(s) if that doesn't work.

Many thanks for those ideas,

Ian
4 August 2017 at 00:46 #310279
duncan webster 1
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@duncanwebster1
I'd use a coarse thread for the insert, not UNF. The reason was explained eloquently in ME recently
4 August 2017 at 03:21 #310280
Paul Lousick
Participant
@paullousick59116
3.5mm wall thickness is not enough for 3/8" UNC (or other) blind tapped hole. Not enough threads to hold a stud.

As suggested, drill and tap 3/8" UNC all of the way thru the plate. Then make a stepped stud 3/8" UNC to whatever the original stud diameter was. You could turn down and thread the shank of a bolt to the smaller thread size.

Leave the 3/8" end of the stud long enough to pass thru the plate and secure with a nut on the inside of the stove. This will stop the new stud from unscrewing and also give it much greater pull-out resistance.

Paul.
4 August 2017 at 09:58 #310303
I.M. OUTAHERE
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@i-m-outahere
Ian a photo of what you are trying to fix would help

XD.
4 August 2017 at 10:32 #310314
Ian Skeldon 2
Participant
@ianskeldon2
Mmm seems like my initial concerns are well founded, I like the idea of drilling through and tapping, then using a shouldered or stepped thread.

I will try to get a couple of photos up to show the problem in more clarity.

But in the mean time, thanks again to all of you for your help.

Ian
10 August 2017 at 20:32 #311389
Ian Skeldon 2
Participant
@ianskeldon2
Quick update,

drilled it a little deeper (must have been close to breaking through the outer face, but didn't), then tapped it in have a go style with (Duncans advice about using UNF followed) a M10 Carbon plug tap, ground to be very flat to allow it to go as deep as possible.

I am sure it is more down to luck than skill but it has worked perfectly. If it does fail in the future due to lack of depth then I will have to use some of the excellent ideas put forward.

Many thanks to everyone for being so helpful.
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