Stainless steel rod quality

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Stainless steel rod quality

This topic has 11 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 14 May 2016 at 22:29 by Anonymous.

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14 May 2016 at 17:53 #29600
JA
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@ja
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14 May 2016 at 17:53 #238664
JA
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@ja
Recent I bought a length of 3/32" diameter 303 grade stainless steel rod that is to be used for a valve rod on a steam engine. On inspection I found that it is badly scored with longitudinal grooves as shown in the picture.

I assume these were produced by a damaged die when the rod was drawn.

I have no idea what specs cover such rod but is this acceptable? Also would it be able to polish this out before the hardening of the steel prevents further finishing?

JA
14 May 2016 at 17:57 #238668
jimmy b
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@jimmyb
How do you harden 303 stainless?
14 May 2016 at 18:01 #238671
Brian H
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@brianh50089
I'm not sure that this grade can be hardened
14 May 2016 at 18:43 #238677
duncan webster 1
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@duncanwebster1
Send it back. It will be very difficut to remove these marks and keep the rod round, and it will then be undersize anyway.
14 May 2016 at 19:31 #238680
JA
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@ja
Being an 18/8 stainless I would have thought that 303 grade would work harden. If so polishing would produce a hard surface. According to a data sheet it cannot be hardened by heat treating. I think it can be annealed, though.

I am not sure about sending it back. The length cost about £0.70.

JA
14 May 2016 at 19:52 #238681
Kenneth Deighton
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@kennethdeighton43272
How do you tell the different grades of Stainless steel, I notice 303 and 18/8 is mentioned, what does it all mean, ?.

Thanks, Ken.
14 May 2016 at 19:55 #238682
Muzzer
Participant
@muzzer
The British Stainless Steel Association has a pretty good website. Seems that 303 is a slightly easier cutting version of 304 due to the addition of sulphur.

Although you can get through-hardening stainless steels (eg 420), most stainless steels don't contain carbon, so any hardening has to be surface treatments such as carburising, nitriding, chromising etc. Funny this should come, up as I discovered yesterday that a bearing part we had designed for through hardening had somehow been changed from 420 to 304L (the L denotes an almost total absence of carbon), rendering it only suitable for surface hardening. Not much use for a bearing, then.

Sounds as if you could machine it down. If the work hardening becomes an issue, you could anneal it as suggested.

Murray

Edited By Muzzer on 14/05/2016 19:56:04
14 May 2016 at 19:56 #238683
Michael Gilligan
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@michaelgilligan61133
Ken,

This is a good place to start **LINK**

MichaelG.

.

Edit: Muzzer beat me to it.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 14/05/2016 19:57:32
14 May 2016 at 21:21 #238691
julian atkins
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@julianatkins58923
Hi JA,

I had exactly the same experience some years ago though in my case was for boiler handrails. Other stuff 3/32" dia has been excellent and properly ground.

It is a case of sometimes you win, sometimes not.

Cheers,

Julian
14 May 2016 at 21:50 #238699
Chris Denton
Participant
@chrisdenton53037
I've used loads of 303, never had it harden. It's a fair bit easier to cut than 304.
14 May 2016 at 22:29 #238711
Anonymous
Like night and day; 303 is easy-peasy to machine and gives an excellent finish without trying. On the other hand 304 is a complete pig; in my limited trials I never got anything approaching a good finish.

Andrew
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