What is better than Shellac ?

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What is better than Shellac ?

Home Forums Materials What is better than Shellac ?

Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)
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  • #215017
    Tim Stevens
    Participant
      @timstevens64731

      I have used shellac for temporary holding jobs, but I'm sure that there must be better stuff now. I would appreciate your advice.

      Basically, to hold parts for machining and then to release them easily again, using moderate heat, solvent, whatever.

      Regards, Tim

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      #29558
      Tim Stevens
      Participant
        @timstevens64731
        #215019
        KWIL
        Participant
          @kwil

          I have used super glue on occasions, but depends on the area available for adhesion and the job in hand.

          #215021
          john carruthers
          Participant
            @johncarruthers46255

            Superglue or double sided carpet tape.

            #215025
            Philip Rowe
            Participant
              @philiprowe13116

              Strangely enough I had to do just that this afternoon, I was making a 0.5mm thick thrust washer and to get an accurate thickness after parting off from the parent stock I glued it with superglue to a piece of scrap bar held in the chuck. After the thickness was finished I removed it with a heat gun.

              I suppose I could have used a flame but I didn't want to risk distorting it with too much heat.

              Phil

              #215035
              Georgineer
              Participant
                @georgineer

                I wonder if threadlock compound would give enough grip on flat surfaces. I use it to hold 1/8" cutter shanks in silver steel shafts in my Roland engraver (reamed hole, so close fit), and it lets go with mild heating. The extra area holding, say, a washer should give it a fair bit of grip as long as there is a close fit.

                Using double sided tape is very effective, but gives an unknown and uncontrollable distance between the workpiece and its holder, so is not ideal for precision work.

                George

                #215045
                John Stevenson 1
                Participant
                  @johnstevenson1

                  PVA glue on the faceplate or whatever, then a sheet of thick drawing paper, then PVA and then your part, clamp up, leave to dry and it resists quite a lot of force.

                  Boiling water cleans it all off.

                  #215047
                  Paul Lousick
                  Participant
                    @paullousick59116

                    Hot melt glue ?

                    #215049
                    Brian John
                    Participant
                      @brianjohn93961

                      I use Loctite on my wax chucks. You apply  heat with a small blow torch to burn it off when you are ready. I use Loctite 263, the high strength red one.

                      WARNING : it sets very quickly  but I give it 24 hours before machining it.

                      Edited By Brian John on 04/12/2015 05:56:14

                      #215064
                      Ian S C
                      Participant
                        @iansc

                        The method mentioned by JS will hold quite a load, when I was wood turning I used that method when making large bowls, mostly 9" diameter by 4" deep Mahogany, the base of the bowls were usually about 4" diameter. Instead of soaking it in water, a chisel at the joint, a sharp whack with a mallet splits the paper, then a damp cloth takes of the remaining paper and glue. I'm not sure of the weight of the wood, but the blank I started with was a square bit with the corners cut off, and you don't need to go gently when you get working on it.

                        Ian S C

                        #215081
                        KWIL
                        Participant
                          @kwil

                          Ian,

                          I used to do the same, just had to be careful when you reduced the diameter of the bowl base if the bowl was a large one!!

                          #215161
                          Ian S C
                          Participant
                            @iansc

                            True! I tried to make my gluing area the right size for the finished base, then I didn't get the tool in the joint area. I usually could get two or three small bowls out of the large one(waste no want not), to make these you must dig deep into the face of the bowl blank, then hit it hard with a hammer, and the waste bit breaks out, and you can finish that later, but the glue paper glue still holds(I think one came unstuck).

                            Ian S C

                            #215171
                            Tim Stevens
                            Participant
                              @timstevens64731

                              Thanks for all your helpful responses. So can I summarise?

                              Shellac is not super strong, separates with heat, and cleans off easily with alcohol

                              PVA is stronger, best used with a paper interleaf, then separates with impact, and cleans off with boiling water

                              Loctite (et al) comes in varying strengths and viscosities, separated by heat (hotter than shellac but not enough to destroy temper) but removed with difficulty.

                              Superglue is similar to Loctite, needs more careful use.

                              All I need for perfection is a solvent for Loctite and Superglue traces after separation. Acetone? Formaldehyde?

                              Regards, Tim

                              #215188
                              duncan webster 1
                              Participant
                                @duncanwebster1

                                Old fashioned Nitromors paint stripper shifted loctite, but I've been told they have reformulated it so not sure whether the new stuff does. The active ingredient was dichloro methane, but it is wicked stuff, very volatile and carcinogenic.

                                #215195
                                Marcus Bowman
                                Participant
                                  @marcusbowman28936

                                  Loctite Detach removes Loctite (as the name suggests), and there is a similar thing for Superglue (which I have used on my fingers once or twice…..). They are commercial products, but designed for the job.

                                  The superglue remover is supposed to live within arm's reach of my bench, but I can't see it at the moment, which is a bit worrying.

                                  Marcus

                                  #215201
                                  john carruthers
                                  Participant
                                    @johncarruthers46255

                                    I use acetone, cheap and easy.

                                    #215229
                                    Ian Welford
                                    Participant
                                      @ianwelford58739

                                      acetone( nail varnish remover) works , leave it to soak and the superglue either rubberizes ( softens ) or dissolves off.

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