The key steel will cut easily with a hacksaw, and easily worked with a file. With some of the machinery I work with, it has 3/8" key ways, the broach used on the sprokets, and pulleys is warn, and cuts narrow, and sometimes the keyway in the shaft is also a bit tight, but a few strokes with a file soon fixes that. It does become a problem when (as has happened a few times) the key in the shaft is not on center. Ian S C

Tom,

Two things you might possibly mistake for silver steel: some stainless steels might have a ground finish (test with magnet – most but not all SS will be non-ferromagnetic, or only very slightly so); and PGMS (precision ground mild steel). However, both of these normally come in longer lengths than 13" (unless it has been cut of course).

A spark test on a grinder may be the easiest way to tell them apart (look it up). Some silver steel has "Stubbs" stamped on one end (they are, or used to be, the main maker in this country). Be aware however that is is also avalable in 39" lengths, so seeing a cut length more than 13" is not conclusive proof it isn't silver steel.

PGMS would normally arrive in the hobby trade in 2' lengths (about as long as convenient for posting and storing). It is significantly cheaper than silver steel, and is much to be recommended over it when you just want precise diameter material such as axles.

David

Edited By David Littlewood on 04/07/2012 11:27:44

Hi Tom why not cut a short bit off the round bar heat it to cherry then quench if you can't touch it with a file it's very likely to be silver steel

Paul