Watermills and windmills used fruitwood such as apple for gear teeth, although this was running against cast iron. This website has a list of the properties of different timbers for making wooden clock gears, so it might be relevant.

Brian G

It all depends on whether it will just be a static model or one when pushed the gears will turn or even to the point of running it on air.

For a static model, any close-grained wood will do.

Woods that would be suitable for moving gears I would suggest Lignum Vitae very close grain and takes detail well, beech is another that is suitable, also a cabinet grade plywood as that will give strength in all directions.

Those that make wooden clocks tend to go the plywood route.

Lignum vitae is hard to come by and I can't remember if it is now on cites list. If the gears are small and you want the LV wood then look for old Bowls balls before they started using composite materials.

I was very fortunate in that I was able to get 18 LV balls and I know they are not cheap to buy. Also worth noting is that LV was used as bearing material because of its oily nature which can also be a downfall if you want to glue anything to it a wipe over with thinners and glueing immediately seems to work.

I forgot boxwood which in woodturning circles takes a screw thread very well

Edited By Derek Lane on 14/06/2020 14:17:19

For different toys I have made for young relatives I cut the gears from good quality aircraft 5 ply plywood. This effectively solved the grain issue with the gears, which were very lightly loaded. The glue used in the plywood was very good, no delamination during cutting or in use occurred. Just food for thought.

Another vote for Hornbeam and Fruit woods. Lignum Vitae would be a good choice, although a little expensive and not that easy to get hold of except as Woodturning blanks. The "self lubricating" properties of LV could be useful, but as a consequence, make it difficult to glue.

Interesting project, keep us posted on progress.

oak was also used a a bearing along with a dolop of tallow……..

pretty sure LV is a restricted wood now…….

A poor relation is Almond wood……very heavy and quite hard, def dence……..

Lucky for me it grows wild on my plot…….biggest trunk I've found was 4-6"……

Agree in spades. No natural wood of any species can have strong teeth on all four points of the compass. If the teeth at 12 o'clock are parallel with the grain, those at 3 o'clock will be perpendicular to it.

For a really well engineered wooden gear, maybe plies at 30 or 45 degree increments made from birch veneer would provide a good solution. Epoxy resin to glue the plies and a good squeeze in a cider press while it is curing.

Presumably he knows of Mattius Wandel and the woodgears.ca site.

Edited By DC31k on 14/06/2020 16:26:33

Purpleheart is quite attractive and close-grained.

But the missus thinks it smells of sick…

I guess it depends upon what size / scale it will be ? If its a model, I would go for Beech Jabroc – after all it is wood.

Will he paint it or rentokill it ?

Robbibs Timber supply marine ply to BS standards from 1.5 mm up. 5 mm up is available in five or more ply. Varnishing with epoxy resin should give good strength. They can supply full sheets or cut to size. I've had excellent service including delivery to France.

Russell

A philosophical question, which probably only Mick H’s son can answer:

Does ready-made ply qualify as ‘wood’ ?

… or, as an ‘engineered material’ would its use be considered cheating ?

MichaelG.

Having just finished my very first attempt at carving, a love spoon as an anniversary present, I can vouch for the hardness of hornbeam. It started as a branch on my woodpile that was there for a couple of years, so was well seasoned and has come up with a great finish.

I have read when it is green it is easier to work.

Hmm, a wooden boiler, now that sounds like an interesting challenge, after all, you can boil water in a paper bag over a fire.

Adrian