The book, The building and running of steam traction engines and roller models by H.R. Plastow, published by Bridport Foundry (Stuart Models) may be a good place to start ! If you are not from an engineering background then you have an awful lot to learn for your own safety and others. Operating a machine like that requires an understanding of many things, I'm surprised that the York club can't help you to learn – but it will take quite some time. If you are new to all this then I can understand their reluctance to do/ issue a certificate. A commercial boiler inspection is a possibility but will require you to prepare the engine for inspection and could involve much work and cost.. Good Luck. Noel.

OK, this may be granny and eggs if as you say, you have experience of steam engines but here goes;

You have 2 routes to getting your boiler tested, the club route (which you obviously know about) and the commercial route. However both have pretty well the same requirements in terms of basic history of the boiler which so far you haven’t mentioned.

Let’s assume (dangerous) this isn’t a new boiler? Also given it’s a 4” that it is steel? If it is not new then hopefully you have at least the most recent expired certificates? That is good because it evidences the boiler has been tested before and you will know if it was done by a club or by a commercial independent inspector? Ideally if you have that information you will also know if the boiler was commercially made or made by an individual. In both cases hopefully you have a portfolio of information about the boiler like material certificates, welder certification and initial shell test?

If it’s a new boiler that has not been previously tested and you have no evidence of material certificates for the plate and tubes and evidence of welder qualification for the person putting it together or an initial shell test, you might be on a sticky wicket! If you have no information you need to look at the boiler to see if there is a manufacturers plate and boiler number. If you can identify who made it then you can contact them and hope they can provide duplicates of the basic information.

The first step is to examine the information you have and let that guide you on the way forward, if you have history of club tests, great you will probably find your local club will take it on. If it has been previously commercially tested then your best bet may be to continue down that route. If you have no or limited history you may find a commercial tester is more suited to guide you. Whichever route you choose the first step is to discuss it with the chosen inspector and present any evidence of previous tests / constructional detail you have.

In terms of preparing for the test itself, when was it last hydraulically tested? If it was a commercial test that would have been valid for 10 years and to revalidate the inspector will likely require removal of the cladding (thin sheet cover and lagging beneath that runs from firebox to smokebox). If it was a club test then unless the last test was for a new boiler it will have been valid for 2 years – if the boiler is 10 years old or more and you can’t demonstrate the cladding has been removed in recent history a club will likely require its removal also.

The hydraulic test will be a thorough cold examination perhaps involving taking ultrasonic thickness readings in various places, inspection of all threads in boiler bushes (fusible plug thread will be of interest) and possibly putting a camera inside to visually check for corrosion. All the boiler wash out plugs, manhole door, clack valves and other fittings should be removed for inspection. Once this is completed the plugs, fittings and doors are fitted, minus the pressure gauge and safety valve (you will need a blanking plate for the safety valve or if they are screwed in which is unlikely on a Burrell, plugs) which should be blanked off and the inspectors gauge and pump will be connected, the boiler filled with water expelling all air and pumped up to 1.5 times working pressure. If the regulator doesn’t seal you will need to blank that off too.

Assuming that is satisfactory the boiler will then be steamed to ensure the water gauge, safety valve(s) pump and injectors are all functional and if so – you get your certificate.

While the comments above and the line taken by your local club are understandable it is worthy of note that the boiler test is to test the boiler, not the competence of the operator. Neither a commercial inspector or a club inspector will take the engine from you, test and return, they will expect you to present the boiler ready for inspection and then put it back together and steam it up. If you don’t have the knowledge / competence to do this then there are several commercial companies around that may assist for a price and also offer you some basic training.

Try Legacy Vehicles, Berrybrook Steam, The Steam Workshop, John Rex Models to see if they can help? Caveat I have no personal knowledge of any of these suggested companies or association with them so these are not recommendations, merely suggestions for you to research.

Final point is for a club to test your boiler you have to be a member. Most clubs are wary of people coming along asking for boiler tests unless they have a good feeling you are interested in joining and will contribute to club events. If that is not you, go the commercial route. Final final technicality is you can’t have one test (hydraulic or steam) on one scheme and the other on the other scheme. So you need to choose which route you go at the start and stick with it.

Hope that helps.

Paul.

MSRVS give a bit of a guide about testing here

If you are doing nothing this coming weekend (19, 20th August) have a ride down to the Lincoln steam rally and talk to some of the miniature owners there.

We will be there with Maud, our 4" McLaren.