I have a Flexispeed Meteor 2 which is the predecessor of the Simat. Mine was second hand and the main things on it were the casting that holds in the back-gear had cracked by being over-tightened. I understand that it is a common problem, but causes no difficulties in use: well, mine doesn't. The other thing that needed to be adjusted was the headstock bearing which is just a phospher bronze bush. Mine needed a slight tweak, but was nothing of concern. Other than that, everything was sound.

I am no great machinist, but it seems to be capable of working to tight tolerances, as long as everything is adjusted well, the tool is sharp and I don't try rushing.

Did you mean the largest or smallest stock that the chuck can hold? I have the original Flexispeed chuck, so could check the capacity this evening.

James.

before you go to this effort, you might check out the 3D printed mainspring winders. If you have a 3D printer (or a mate with one) it will potentially save you a lot of time and money.

here on you tube and the original discussion here.

I have made some mainspring winders on my lathe (a standard chinese 7×14) and it was easy enough. The only thing you need real accuracy for is the arbor. In a Bergeon, the arbor has a hook built in. That's quite hard to machine at that scale.

Just before I discovered the 3D printed mainspring winder I bought a set of chinese winders – 10 of them (for about 50 quid). Naturally, none of them were the right size for the particular mainsprings I wanted to wind. All of these had no hook, just a friction fit arbor. This is also the approach I'd taken on the two I'd hand made and one worked OK and one didn't. I think you need to get the diameter of the arbor just right – a fraction too small and it won't wind a bit to big and there is the risk of breaking it – especially if it's an old old spring.

I've actually printed a winder for the watch I'm looking at at the moment, but this was very recently and I've not got round to trying them out yet – it's on my list. However, I have quite high hopes for them and it may be worth you investigating. They have some quite clever ideas behind them. Worth cheching out.

Iain

When buying make sure the 3 jaw chuck has both sets of jaws, or reversible ones as you will want 'oustide jaws' for holding larger parts.

A small lathe like this is a good idea for learning on and safer. Far too many come on here, albeit usually wanting to make their motorbike bits, having bought a lathe with a 1 or 2 horse power motor not realising how dangerous it can be when you haven't a clue.

It's good to have the drill cuck and relevant arbor, since, whilst it's a 0MT, it's a truncated one.
As I recall, and I may be wrong, it's the wide end of the 0MT which is missing, so it's not just a case of getting a full length one and sawing off the thin end.

There's some info on Tony's site HERE
http://www.lathes.co.uk/flexy/page5.html

Bill

You won't really be able to drill bigger than 6mm anyway but don't worry you will learn how to bore out bigger holes.

Having looked at the 3D print video I think it is all easily within the capabilities of a Simat to make a brass equivalent. The difficult operation would be the tiny hole for the spring holder but as a watchmaker you probably can take thatin your stride.
The Bergeon one is also doable with more fuss except perhaps for the long knurled body which will need practice first. I suggest a compromise here with a bit of rubber tube.

Interesting to see this area of work I am not familiar with.