Myford ml10 spindle removal

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Myford ml10 spindle removal

This topic has 23 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 30 June 2023 at 14:06 by Lee Wells.

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11 January 2022 at 05:13 #579721
Jeremy Smith 2
Participant
@jeremysmith2
I’m in the process of removing the spindle on my myford ml10. I read on here that one of the steps was to loosen two grub screws on the shaft – I can only find one, however. Is this pulley hole supposed to have one? It was worn over slightly, and I cleared the hole using a small drill bit, but I see nothing

this one has a set screw.
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11 January 2022 at 05:13 #28512
Jeremy Smith 2
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@jeremysmith2
11 January 2022 at 05:14 #579722
Jeremy Smith 2
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@jeremysmith2
The only reason I am pulling it apart is to replace the belt. Am I better off just getting a links letter v belt, and leave this all together?
11 January 2022 at 08:29 #579735
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
This won’t in itself help much, Jeremy … because my copy of Nr. 743 D id missing its ‘Pictorial Parts List’ :

… but hopefully it will trigger someone’s memory.

MichaelG.
11 January 2022 at 17:16 #579868
Jeremy Smith 2
Participant
@jeremysmith2
Thanks Michael.

Does anyone else here have this parts diagram?

also, any recommendations on whether I should replace the v belt with a linkable belt? I’d really prefer to not dismantle the unit if it isn’t needed.

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 11/01/2022 17:17:26
11 January 2022 at 17:33 #579871
ALLAN QURASHI
Participant
@allanqurashi51750
I've taken a photo of the spindle assembly drawing, but struggling to recall how to post it on here. Copy & paste doesn't work. Give us a mo. Allan
11 January 2022 at 17:42 #579875
ALLAN QURASHI
Participant
@allanqurashi51750
11 January 2022 at 17:48 #579877
Ady1
Participant
@ady1
While I am a link belt user you still need to get your headstock sorted anyway

…and since you are now on that job…
11 January 2022 at 18:47 #579889
ALLAN QURASHI
Participant
@allanqurashi51750
Hi again Jeremy. This is the text from the ML10 instructions version 743K which matches the diagram I posted. Some of the item numbers are different to the 743D version that Michael posted for you. I believe you only have grub screw 54 locking the bull gear to the spindle, and grub screw 144 in the collar that prevents the pulley cone from endfloating, plus of course the spindle gear and bearing preloading collar and their associated lock screws . I'd suggest you do replace the vee belt because they're cheap, reliable and quiet, and that also gives you a chance to inspect the bearings at the same time. Happy overhauling. Allan
11 January 2022 at 19:12 #579895
Jeremy Smith 2
Participant
@jeremysmith2
Just so I’m clear – I am not missing a hidden set screw inside of the pulley, correct? That little hole in the pulley I found clearly looked like a casting air pocket, which was slightly opened over use of the machine. I ran my small bit in it, just to be sure it wasn’t a set screw hole. I even blew some air in it just to be sure to clear any chips out of the hole.
11 January 2022 at 19:14 #579897
Jeremy Smith 2
Participant
@jeremysmith2
Upon looking at your post again, I’m thinking that there is a set screw hidden to the left of the pulley, which is loosened once you tap the spindle out slightly?
11 January 2022 at 19:22 #579901
John Beresford
Participant
@johnberesford27902
Jeremy, if the only reason you have to take the spindle out is to replace the belt, personally I would just replace it with a link belt and leave it be. If you suspect your bearings, well thats another thing. I went through this process a year ago on my Speed 10 and getting the spindle out was such a struggle I ended up damaging the roller bearings and replacing those too. Also hammering the new bearings in fully home and straight was not easy! I did this to replace a worn link belt with a brand new solid belt but was disappointed to find the lathe then suffered from horrendous vibrations that shook whole bench. This lasted for weeks so I eventually I cut that belt out and replaced it with a new link belt and now theres no vibration at all!

Regarding the grub screw; Ive just been out to look at mine and there is no grub screw on the pulley set. There is one however on the positioning collar (part no. 10370) on the left, between the bearing housing and the pulley set. Your photo however looks different to mine in that the collar on yours is much larger diameter and even looks to be part of the pulley set. Can you confirm if the pulley and collar are separate or as one? The pulley set is not screwed to the spindle as it has to spin freely on the spindle when back gear is engaged. The rotation from the belt-pulley is transmitted under normal running by the catch on the bull wheel. The purpose of the postioning collar with the grub screw is to take up the end float on the pulley set so that is screwed to the spindle. I’m just wondering if on yours the pulley was updated to incorporate the positioning collar and end-float take up was either not required or achieved by some other means?

hope that helps.

John
11 January 2022 at 19:26 #579903
ALLAN QURASHI
Participant
@allanqurashi51750
Sorry Jeremy, In my rush to provide you with pictures, I didn't notice yours is a plain bearing ML10 so probably best to ignore my pictures & instructions above.

But for the suspect setscrew at the bottom of your small pulley groove…..not sure how different your version of the ML10 is, but on mine the pulley cone (and small gear permanently locked to it) turns freely on the spindle whilst the big bull gear is permanently keyed to the spindle. There's a radial sliding toothed peg which locks the two gears together for normal direct drive, and unlocks them for reduction drive through the backgear.

So if you have a similar feature for backgear disengagenment, you could set it to disengage, and that should allow the pulley cone to spin. If it does, you'll know the set screw you drilled to look for isn't there/isn't gripping the pulley cone.
12 January 2022 at 03:25 #579982
Jeremy Smith 2
Participant
@jeremysmith2
John, the pulley and collar(where there should be a collar that is), I’s one solid piece.

I am going to leave it alone, and use a linkable belt like you mentioned. However, I need to figure this out because in the future, it will need to be serviced possibly.
12 January 2022 at 03:33 #579983
Jeremy Smith 2
Participant
@jeremysmith2
John, Is this the correct size belt?**LINK**
12 January 2022 at 09:26 #580003
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Just to emphasise the point which Allan made :

Jeremy’s lathe is an ML 10 [with plain bearings] … Nr. 743 D refers
Allan’s lathe is a Speed 10 [with taper bearings] … Nr. 743 K refers

The spindle assemblies are different and the instruction books are different.

… I don’t have either machine, but I have admired them from afar

MichaelG.
12 January 2022 at 09:38 #580004
Robin King
Participant
@robinking15611
Jeremy,

you might already have seen this but on http://www.instructables.com is one on 'Stripping a ML10 (Speed 10) headstock with details that you might find helpful inc references to the two grubscrews etc.
12 January 2022 at 10:02 #580013
John Beresford
Participant
@johnberesford27902
Jeremy, similar belt to that in type but mine is 1/2” wide not 3/8”. It’s a Fenner belt. You need to check the width of your pulley grooves at the top. I got mine from Lathe Spares in UK advertised as specifically for the ML10 but I would think other suppliers do Fenner belts as well.
12 January 2022 at 10:05 #580016
Ady1
Participant
@ady1
With the Drummond M everything is grubscrewed in except the bullwheel which you need to bash out because it's on a tight tapered square key fit to the shaft

One of the 2 holes on the pulley is actually an oil hole for the pulley backgear mechanism

Edited By Ady1 on 12/01/2022 10:28:46
29 June 2023 at 15:03 #650359
Lee Wells
Participant
@leewells46045
Jeremy smith 2, I also have an ml10 how ever I notice the spindle gear box appears quite different from my own lathe, it appears the baring holders are removable on your lathe but on my lathe the casing is one piece, is yours the ml 10 speed or just the ml10? Also does everyone know where to buy a replacement lead screw and head stock spindle for a readable price?
30 June 2023 at 12:44 #650450
Lee Wells
Participant
@leewells46045
I mean a reasonable not readable price

Edited By Lee Wells on 30/06/2023 12:45:25
30 June 2023 at 12:57 #650453
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Whether readable, reasonable, or both, Lee … I fear that you will struggle

Delightful machines as they are; it appears that the ML10 series was abandoned by ‘new Myford’

Hopefully someone will correct me on this.

MichaelG.
30 June 2023 at 13:46 #650459
Lee Wells
Participant
@leewells46045
Thank you MichaelG, I’ve been able to update the cross slide and top slide to metric feed screws, after a small accident involving a wall and my lathe, the spindle and all feed screws were bent. But I have to say that the quality of the machine is great, it survived relatively unscathed. If the new myford still makes the ml7 then surely they would be able to repair the bent spindle and lead screw?
30 June 2023 at 14:06 #650464
Lee Wells
Participant
@leewells46045
I’ve just been on myfords website (it just occurred to me that they would have a website) and I can get the spindle but I can’t find the feed screw, would the ml7 lead screw fit the ml10

Edited By Lee Wells on 30/06/2023 14:22:12
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