Can you post some pictures as this model does not usually have a belly tank. Is it actually from a kit or built to Hainings design which started publication in 1987?

Talk to your boiler inspector as its more than likely they will require two means of filling the boiler, this is usually by pump off the crankshaft and injector though a hand pump may be possible to replace the injector.

J

Hi Derek,

Which Ruston Proctor are you building ?

I am building a 6" Ruston Proctor SD which has a water tank in the tender. Some engines also had auxiliary tanks on either side of the boiler. It should not matter where you get your water from but should have 2 independent methods of getting water into the boiler. (injectors, mechanical pump, hand pump, etc)

Paul.

Assuming it is Hainings SD rather than Linconshire Lad then there was no book as such but the series of build articles in ME starting April 1987 would be as good as.

The additional tanks on a Ruston Proctor SD are aranged either side of the boiler in this fashion.

To me it says 5/32" or 3/16" pipe.

Its quite usual to have say 3/16 water feed to water pump with a 5/32 from that to the clack or back into the tender via the bypass. Being anything after the pump is being pushed it does not need such a large dia.

Water lifter steam feed could be 1/8" or 5/32" you are unlikely to use it anyway unless you have a liking for filling the engine from puddles. I would use a standard 5/16 x 32 nut and make a nipple with a smaller hole to take the smaller pipe or just solder on a sleeve to step it upto a larger nipple.

Injector I'd say 5/32" steam feed to it then 3/16" for water feed to it and the same from injector to clack

If its just gravity from the pannier tanks to teh tender than 3/16"

The water gauges usually don't go anywhere near the bottom of the boiler, they only need go just below the top of teh firebox crown which is where the bush(S) should be located on the back of the boiler. Its usual to run a small pipe , 1/8" would do from the cock on the watergauge down to teh bottom of the engine so that when you blow steam/water through the glass to clear it that goes out to waste between the tender and back of the boiler. Can you post a picture of this drawing, I don't think two gauges are really needed on a small engine and not all large ones had two.

EDIT Looks like the full size did have two glasses, this is the layout on a 4" engine, you can see the two small pipes to waste

Edited By JasonB on 14/10/2014 16:32:24

Edited By JasonB on 14/10/2014 16:32:44

It's usual to have some fairly small pipes leading from the bottom of each gauge glass to "blow through" the glass to clear scum or debris, and to check that the water level restores to its original position. There's usually a blowdown valve mounted low down on the firebox for the purpose of draining the boiler. Having it low down enables all the accumulated pooh to be blown away with the water/steam when the boiler is drained at the end of a run.

Water gauges for model engines can be purchased if you do not want to make them yourself. Also clack valves (check valve) , pumps and injectors, etc.

Note that this is the preferred position for the valve levers when in the operating position. (all levers pointing down).

Steam valve (top) – Open

Water valve (bottom) – Open

Drain valve – Closed

Regards, Paul.