High Tensile Studs ?

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High Tensile Studs ?

This topic has 9 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 12 April 2012 at 13:12 by JasonB.

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10 April 2012 at 17:29 #2743
RICHARD GREEN 2
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@richardgreen2
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10 April 2012 at 17:29 #88877
RICHARD GREEN 2
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@richardgreen2
I am building a 6" scale Burrell traction engine, I have to fit the cylinder block to the boiler with 10mm studs and nuts,

I have in stock a load of new 10mm studs, just the right length, but they are high tensile ,

Are these suitable for this job , or shall I make some from EN8 ?

Richard.
10 April 2012 at 19:20 #88888
Springbok
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@springbok
Is the cylinder block cast iron and the boiler steel. !! I could be shot down in flames for saying this but a would wipe your studs with a smear of molidium grease before inserting.If the boiler is steel you should have no problems.

Bob
10 April 2012 at 20:16 #88893
RICHARD GREEN 2
Participant
@richardgreen2
Yes the boiler is 10mm thick steel, and the cylinder block is about 16mm cast iron,

Someone suggested to me that the heating and cooling of the boiler as it's used would affect the quality of the high tensile material, to a point where the HT studs could fail,

Whereas EN8 might be a bit more forgiving, ?

Was he talking rubbish, or is there any truth in what he says ?

Richard.
10 April 2012 at 22:47 #88916
Anonymous
Don't think you need anything fancy. In the linked thread EN3B is recommended:

http://www.tractiontalkforum.com/showthread.php?t=20177&highlight=studs

Regards,

Andrew
11 April 2012 at 07:34 #88923
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
No nothing too exotic needed.

You may want to consider making bolts with a dummy bit of thread protruding or silversoldering nuts onto a threaded stud. This makes it a lot easier if the block has to come off as trying to remove all the studs with just a small amount of protruding thread won't be easy.

Something like these ones of Conrad's

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/corromant/diary.htm

Bit of Foliac on the studs when you put it together will help them come out, graphite not manganise.

J
12 April 2012 at 08:51 #88976
RICHARD GREEN 2
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@richardgreen2
Thank you all for your ideas, I was only thinking of using the high tensile studs because I already have them in stock,

It will probably be better to make 25 studs from EN3B, that should be more than adequate.

Thanks,

Richard.
12 April 2012 at 09:30 #88980
MICHAEL WILLIAMS
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@michaelwilliams41215
Your friend is right to the extent that if you steamed your boiler several million times the HT studs might be more likely to fail in fatigue than the softer ones and only then if they were abnormally highly loaded .

Rather than fatigue failure most common cause of stud breakage in steam engines is just rust .

Just out of curiosity are you fitting a doubler plate to the boiler to take the studs and how are you seating cylinder to boiler – metal on metal , sealant , thin gasket , thick gasket ?
12 April 2012 at 13:05 #88984
RICHARD GREEN 2
Participant
@richardgreen2
Michael, The drawings show the studs threaded straight into the 10mm thick boiler barrel,

The joint will be 1.5mm thick steam gasket , with foliac manganese spread on both sides,

Then all clamped up together with 25 10mm studs and nuts.

This is a 6" scale engine, so the boiler barrel should be about 1/4" thick, but for some reason they make these model boilers 10mm thick, that should be more than enough to thread these studs into.

Richard.
12 April 2012 at 13:12 #88986
JasonB
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@jasonb
Thickness is because wasting (rusting) does not scale so you can't just half the full size thickness.

J
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