Material for smoke boxes

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Material for smoke boxes

This topic has 10 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 1 March 2011 at 17:44 by mgj.

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22 February 2011 at 15:50 #64472
michael bird
Participant
@michaelbird72946
Hi all,

For the smoke box (the how to book) tells me that I need a 2.1/2″ long piece of steel tube to finish at 4.1/8″ diameter with a minimum wall thickness of 3/32″.

Has anybody any ideas where on earth I can find such a piece or even a solid chunk that I can bore out?

Hope you can help,

Joshua
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22 February 2011 at 15:50 #2708
michael bird
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@michaelbird72946
22 February 2011 at 16:01 #64473
DMB
Participant
@dmb
Hi Michael,

Obtain a piece of steel sheet and roll it. Probably comes only in metric thickness – 2 or 3mm? No rollers? do you know a club member who will do it for you? Alternatively, pay a supplier to roll and braze it. Blackgates used to do this service but it is an expensive option.

John.
22 February 2011 at 16:31 #64476
Phil Ashman
Participant
@philashman88468
Michael,

My smokebox is rolled from a piece of sheet, but if I were doing it again I’d use a piece of tube if possible. Although it looks perfectly round, it isn’t quite, so I had troubles getting the chimney, saddle, and door ring to fit snugly. Mine’s made of brass, so there’s some give in it, but I reckon you could have quite a struggle getting a door ring into a steel tube that wasn’t quite round.

Phil
22 February 2011 at 16:44 #64478
colin hawes
Participant
@colinhawes85982
Hi Michael, Note that if you roll a tube the job will probably have a flat at the start so roll an overlap so you can saw the starting flat off.

Colin
22 February 2011 at 16:46 #64480
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
If you can’t roll it yourself then try these people.

http://www.feredaycylinder.com/

Its usual to roll and weld a TE smokebox, thats how mine is done. Unfortunately your size cannot be turned from Round hollow section or API schedule tube. 2.5mm sheet is available and would do for 3/32″

J
22 February 2011 at 18:18 #64488
mgj
Participant
@mgj
And mine – I just got a local engineering firm to roll it up out 3mm – 1/8 steel, plus folding the perch bracket and I MIGed it up. Rivets and dummy plates concealed the weld, so it looks propely riveted. whole lot cost £15.

Then the rings, I just turned them till they were a snug fit, and welded them in, though SS would work, and then dummy rivets. Of course with welding nothing will be round round, so I just turned the ID to the right dimension, such that it was snug over the boiler, and that black graphite goo does the rest.

The little loco is even easier since the smokebox is rolled and silver soldered in brass. I’ll turn the rings, and go to a heating firm to get a couple of large jubilee clips and wind that round the box while I SS the gunmetal rings in – I don’t know what ss alloy they used but I’m assuming EF or AG2. Then turn to dimension/round in the 4 jaw. Being a copper boiler, the rivents won’t be dummies.

I’m rather conscious that I at least am not trying to build the engines for Saturn V. Merely hanging grimly on to the trailing edge of technology. As long as it looks (very) decent, the door opens and its all airtight, more is not really necessary?
22 February 2011 at 20:42 #64500
Nicholas Farr
Participant
@nicholasfarr14254
Hi, when rolling hot rolled steel into a cylinder, it is always best to roll a slight curve, then turn it over and roll the curve to other way and then finally turn it back to the side you strated on to roll your cylinder. This method breaks the suface grain structure stresses, from the manufacturing process and gives a much truer roundness in your finished cylinder.

The type of rolls will depend on how much flat portion there is at the beginning and end of the roll. Pyramid rolls will always have a largish flate portion at both the beginnig and end of the roll and an allowance will have to be made in the length of the material from the start if you intend to cut these off to avoid having a flat place that you then have to deal with. The other method is to shape the ends to the correct radius prior to rolling.

In fabrication shops this is normally done by nipping it in the rolls with the edge of the plate just over hanging the bottom roll and then hammering it along its length, then advancing it sligtly and repeating a few times until you get the correct shape using a profile gauge for the length requiered for the rolls you are using. It is then rolled through and the other end is given the same treatment. When both ends have been done, it is removed from the rolls and turned over and then rolled to shape. This method saves on material, but is a little time consuming.

Pinch rolls are not supposed to leave any flat at the start or finish of the roll, but I haven’t used a set that actually does this, so one of the above methods may have to be used, but the portion won’t be as long.

Once your cylinder has been rolled and the joint welded, and with the weld dressed, it can be returned to the rolls and be slightly over rolled for a couple of revs’ to take out any ovalness that may be presant if needed.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 22/02/2011 20:45:16
1 March 2011 at 07:27 #64838
michael bird
Participant
@michaelbird72946
Hi,

Sorry for the delay but can I now thank you all for your help and guidance. A special thank you to Jason for giving me the link to Feraday Cylinders. Nice people, have ordered one, job done.

Regards Mick
1 March 2011 at 09:17 #64841
DMB
Participant
@dmb
Hi Phil,

I admit that my rolled – sheet Sweet Pea smokebox looks round until, like you say you put the turned rings in each end. When I finally fix them, I will bung up the small gaps with Bosswhite or similar `gunge` and paint over with heat – resistant black paint sold for i.c. engine manifolds.

John
1 March 2011 at 17:44 #64857
mgj
Participant
@mgj
You may well find if one is not over enthusiastic about turning to dimension, that with a light tap fit you will bring it round, or pretty nearly so.

Mine is Metre Maid, so its the same tube and probalby the same source. I shall just bevel an edge a tad and silver solder.
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