Hi Phil,

I have a Type 1 vice from Vertex and I have had no issues with mine. Type 2 is slightly different, a photo of the underside might be an idea.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 19/11/2019 04:56:04

Sounds like you are tightening it too much in the wrong notch, better to slacken off screw and move the bar in one notch then the screw won't go in a far when tightened

Funny enough Michael I've just been down to look at the one I have from ARC. If I tighten the screw right up with nothing between the jaws it protrudes less than 1mm but that would not be gripping anything as the force is more vertical than horizontal. The smaller 30something wide one that I have has about 5mm between end of screw and base

Cure would be 1mm off the end of the screw o as you say a small OD washer turned up and slipped under the screw head or better still get the feel of when the bar is correctly engaged

Edited By JasonB on 19/11/2019 08:19:56

Presumably this phenomenon is only possible on the two largest sizes of vise?

My 70mm version does not appear to be able to cause any protrusion of the tightening bolt below the frame. The bolt appears to be forcing the spring against the edge of the movable jaw (ie the angle cannot be such that the bolt can point ‘down-hill’ excessively.

It also appears (but not confirmed) that the spring might well become coil-bound before any problem could arise.

Certainly a shorter bolt would avoid the issue (there should be enough thread within the tightening bar – unless the spring needs extra length to avoid becoming coil-bound?).

The only gripe with mine – apart from the more awkward/extra clamping arrangement needed, for attaching to the mill bed – is that the tightening bar needs relieving to allow the vertical V to accept longer items. Oh, and it seems to be slightly magnetised.

I’m also surprised at Arc’s alleged response of requiring 3 reports before investigating the issue.

Perhaps not the simplest of vises to operate, but I like mine, all the same.

I don't own a Type 2 Precision vice, but seeing the construction, then on then face of it, I could imagine that the screw / nut bar / moving jaw is too far from the workpiece, This would need the capscrew to be rotated too many times to clamp the work, so that it protrudes too far through the "nut". Any thread protruding through the nut is not doing anything!

As long as the capscrew has one diameter, or only slightly more, engagement when fully tightened, there should be minimal risk of damage to the threads or to the machine bed.

May i suggest slackening the capscrew and moving the bar /moving jaw forward one notch and then tightening, to see if this keeps the end of the capscrew clear of the bed?

Since you seem to be in a small minority in having this problem, then it is worth examining the the methods used to operate the device. Unless by some very odd chance your capscrew is too long. This is unlikely, since they are probably made and bought in by the thousands for this vice.

Howard

The end of the screw does need to go right inside the nut so anything on the end won't work and will also make it longer.

The user needs to get into the habit of slackening the screw first and making sure that it is fare enough out without undoing it too far. A 6" or 8" tee shaped key helps here as it is easier to see the angle and make sure the head of the screw has pivoted down to the bottom of the hole in the moving jaw. You then as Francis says slide the jaw upto the work and tighten.

IMO, the vise should be ‘idiot-proof’. If that means making it 1mm taller, to avoid this potential problem, then so be it.

Losing a mm, or so, head space on my Raglan would be quite important to me – there is precious little working space on that small mill when working-holding in the vise (hence my comment above re the vertical groove), but not important for mills with better head space.

With my 70mm version, there would be the possibility of reducing the base by 1mm or so (without the problem observed above) which would help – but probably making them to use a common clamp size is a driving force behind the design!! It does appear, from the pics, that the largest version has a deeper base (needs larger clamps) and the 70 and 90mm versions have the same base depth?

My damage was done when I had a number of identical items to fettle in the mill – their size was just about the distance apart of the slots in the base thus if I loosened the jaw a tad to remove an item the next would fit in + all ok but if I loosened just a little more the nut slipped into the adjacent groove + the screw contacted the table

Poke Yoke is used to try and cater for for idiots but in industry you find the idiots that begin with the letter C and even the deliberate saboteur. It can be very expensive to install vision systems to just check that glue is applied or parts fitted but scrapping a finished vehicle because it cannot be repaired is also expensive.

Mike

As the late Rudi Mischetslager used to say "Common Sense is not that common"

No matter how carefully you test your new car model before launching it into sales, someone will find how to cross the wiper blades, within a month!

I have investigate numberless new engines where the customer has omitted to fill a liquid cooled engine with coolant, or with lubricating oil!

Beware! They walk among us.

Howard

I have only had my mill a couple of months. I noticed a mark on the table when I moved my vice a few weeks ago.

I just had another look after reading this thread, and I can see a number of marks.

I suppose I should be pleased that now I am aware of the issue.

Ian, 18 months ago the same dings happened to my shiny new mill table, most annoying, I shortened the bolt by about 6mm

Precision Tool Vice Type 2 – 90mm wide

Lofty