Most sheds are built to a price these days, because people generally buy on price and not quality, and are rubbish.

The better quality you try and get, the price goes up substantially.

I have built three sheds in the last 18 months, I just built them from scratch myself, and got the spec I wanted.

I would put a substantial poured concrete slab down, and build straight off that.

I wouldn't build off slabs or any plastic contraption, they will inevitable move, even if you can get a flat base with them in the first place.

I've scratch built two 'sheds' as workshops….my second attempt was framed using 90 year old roof beams from nearby house extension projects and has lined walls with no windows but a transparent roof. this proved to be a very good design since there is room for wool insulation in the walls and excellent overhead light during daytime.

As a basic scenario….think of insulation and lighting as these are the deciding factors to how successful your workshop will be……….going out of a warm room into a freezing dark winter shed gloom is going to severly test your workmanship!

Although timber sheds are more aesthetic, there is actually nothing actually wrong with a metal shed.

Condensation is a function of relative humidity with temperature. Keep the air warm and dry and there will be no condensation problem. That means well insulated on the inside, a means of water escape for that which will condense on the inner sides of the metal (like flat metal roofs are not recommended for this!) and well sealed while not in use (but with good ventilation when In use).

My workshop is made of scrapped garage doors bolted/screwed together and well insulated. Admittedly constructed inside a concrete sectional garage – but machines would suffer from condensation if it were not warmed and (particularly) kept at a reasonable relative humidity. The desiccant dehumidifier supplies warmth and keeps the RH under control.

If you are happy with carpentry then building your own is satisfying and in our case cost us a lot less than a commercial item.

Concrete base with a foam insulation barrier below. Inner and outer walls we used 100 by 50 CLS infilled with Celotex with a 50 mm air gap between walls Celotex for roogf insulation. Timber clad – all tanalised.

You bolted some old garage doors together, inside a garage to make a shed????

Jim

Here's an option, **LINK** only built one of their log summer houses but that was straight forward. The fact this one comes insulated should make it easy to heat in the winter and cool in the summer only draw back could be cost.

Bob

About 25 years ago I built my own garden workshop, which is still going strong now, though I'm in the process of a house move.

I used a concrete base, about 5" thick with one layer of steel mesh. When that had cured, I laid one course of 4" concrete blocks, ( 6" on the back wall for several courses, due to a difference in ground height ) using a strong mix, to raise the wooden walls above ground height. The outside of the blocks are painted with masonry paint for waterproofing.

The ring of blocks supports a 3×2" frame, all reclaimed timber, preservative treated, and sitting on a layer of black plastic DPC.

Window and door sizes were governed by what I could obtain as rejects. (for my new build garage at the new house, I picked up a 2nd hand UPVC door and 2 windows from ebay for £200, which is what I'd use these days in place of wood, even on a home built shed; more secure, non rotting and warmer)

The outer was clad in waterproof plywood, with 2" of rockwool, the frame, and plasterboard on the inside, suitably painted.

1/2 hour with a fan heater in the coldest of winters, and the place is toasty warm inside.

My new garage(s) aren't practical to heat, due to the size, and are freezing cold in the winter; much better facilities and far more spacious, but I do miss the cosiness I had previously.

The things I'd do differently to the initial workshop;

UPVC Door and window(s)

2 courses of blocks, as there is enough splash up to wet the base of the plywood sheets.

Welded steel mesh inside the walls, between inner and outer; I had an attempted break-in, with someone using a battery powered drill and a hole cutter, chain drilling a big square hole through both layers of wall. Fortunately they picked the one spot, where when they pulled off the plasterboard, they faced the pillar of a bench drill. Very pleased they didn't realise it would have slid along the bench if they'd pushed it gently.

I'd do the roof with a rubber membrane on the outside instead of corrugated bituminous sheeting. **LINK** though there are many other suppliers of the materials for an easy DIY fit.

I'm assuming you will be running power, so at the same time, add a phone line, and a length of cable to couple it up to the house burglar alarm, if you have one.

I'd advocate a real wired phone in a workshop if possible. If you are unfortunate enough to hurt yourself, or become ill and need to summon assistance, a cordless phone won't work if you tripped the power in the accident.

For the new build garage, I also added a CAT5 computer network cable, so I can easily use a laptop in there, and also a Network Storage disk, for a genuine off-site backup facility for the main house PC.

N.B. make sure you check out the permitted development rules for outbuildings, and check out the electrical obligations

People have been forced to remove log cabins for a variety of planning infringements

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 26/01/2018 17:38:22

Clive, looks like we has similar ideas, though yours if grander and prettier than my original one.

Rather crowded as you can see, and obviously in need of a tidy and clean-up on that day. Not obvious in the photo, but there's a Dore Westbury mill at the back left and a bench with vice and the welding gear behind the Centec. Good job I have a fisheye lens for the camera, as there's little room to swing a mouse, let alone a cat.

I like the idea of the extended roof, and wish I'd done the same, but my original build had a single pitched roof, sloping towards the front door, so couldn't subsequently incorporate one easily.

A point for Colin though is that turning the extended roof into a verandah isn't included in permitted development, so one to watch there.

Bill

p.s. and typing at the same time – twice 

PS :-  Looks like Bill and I were working off the same song sheet!.

Edited By peak4 on 26/01/2018 17:52:13

Edited By peak4 on 26/01/2018 18:13:40

It's time to rebel. You don't have a workshop problem, it's your domestic politics that need fixing.

Try diplomacy, bribery, blackmail, hypnosis, and coercion. Quote Health and Safety regulations. Doom-monger, sulk and have hysterics. Discover rising damp. Cough pathetically while your mistreated puppy eyes swim with tears. Do ANYTHING rather than move into a shed.

This advice comes from the safety of my armchair. Mao tse Tung's Little Red Book says 'In waking a tiger, use a long stick'. You were warned…

Dave

Please let me know where I 'can get a lorry load of timber for a few quid', with 'a new drill and chop saw thrown in'.

The last one I built was about £800 in materials alone (floor, carcasing, cladding, roof).

Thanks.

You could do worse than Tiger Sheds. They offer windowless options on their workshops, and if the pent shed my son bought is anything to go by their quality is pretty good.

**LINK**

Brian

During 2017 we built our Men's Shed 24ftx16ft traditional timber frame cost about £7000 but we had charity discounts and free insulation. Wood has become rather expensive these days at least if you are not in a big town.
6×2 roof and floor, (planning constraints precluded slab) 4×2 wall frame, green painted ply exterior OSB interior, corrugated iron roof. Windows are just glass (free) set into the framing timber with some trim and sealant – no need to buy frames.
I wouldn't advise a plastic type roofing sheet as it curls up in the sun and splits where the cats and squirrel claw it. If felting use the full 3 layer house grade from Wickes not shed grade or torch on but real iron is best.

As well as the planning allowance for a shed you are allowed a car port and nothing says it has to be on the drive so worth designing in to give a BBQ and outside work area.