wc ones were s*d to start in boat.
Oh happy days…
Can you even get “diesel” for them still…I mean ether,amalnitrate…castor oil?

Model technics is what I have used too.

Neil

Rich, This engine was introduced in 1956, with a green head on the aircooled version. It was re-introduced in 1973 with a blue head, but very similar. All my records show the engine to have a one piece integral intake tube, with the usual DC type needle valve, although the later one had a brass sleeve over the operating end of the needle. It would appear that you engine has had the top of the intake cut off, maybe to fit a throttle. However it will now be difficult to add the missing portion, as there is not enough length to fit an external sleeve, or to bore out and insert an extension. The originals also had a small drilled boss across the upper part of the venturi, for whar purpose I am not aware, But this is of no consequence if you only want to run the engine. Tomol.

Hi Rich,

It's been a while since I've been on here so missed your thread.

I have an aircooled DC Rapier which I rebuilt some time back using parts from a water cooled version I do have some spares but what, I'm not sure without looking, however I can certainly measure a liner for you. What is actually wrong? If it's lack of compression you may be able to reclaim it by 'growing' the piston and relapping it and the bore. I have reclaimed several engines in this fashion. I can explain more if you wish.

I'm pretty certain I don't have a complete backplate however providing you only want it to work as opposed to returning it to it's original state you may be able to fit a turned venturi.

Hi Terry, yes it's been a while but it's nice to be up and running (oh I wish) again.

Rich – I have found the spares – I have a piston and liner/set up so let me know what information you need..

The pic makes it look far worse than it is – it came out of a very poor looking but well running engine. As I thought I do not have a backplate but looking at the rebuilt one if you are more concerned with getting it to run as opposed to originality then I think you should be able to remove the stub of venturi casting flush with the back plate and then tap the hole to take a venturi insert which could easily be turned from bar.

My only doubt, without stripping the backplate off, is whether there is enough depth of material for a thread to take. I can't remember exactly how the intake timing is set up on the inner face – it's important any work you do does not affect that.

Hope this helps a little more

Regards – Ramon

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 09/03/2012 10:00:40

I see if you click on the image it opens in the correct format but can the distortion be prevented in the first place?

Hi Ady, yes just had a play and can see whats required. I set it to 250 wide which filled the preview width but this is obviously too small – any idea what the best width would be?

Apologies now for the fact they are too small – I'm off to the workshop

Hi Ramon,

According to the web designer when the new format was introduced, you need to set the width to 350px (if I remember correctly) when adding the picture, not too onerous. I'll see if I can find the thread with his instructions – it should be a sticky really to help newcomers – perhaps David can help find it?

Regards

Terry

P.S. see my next posting. I found the instructions

Edited By Terryd on 09/03/2012 10:22:33