Countrymans steam part 3

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Countrymans steam part 3

This topic has 10 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 8 June 2011 at 17:21 by JasonB.

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3 May 2011 at 15:50 #21855
JasonB
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@jasonb
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3 May 2011 at 15:50 #67915
JasonB
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@jasonb
Good to see that the points raised in part 2 have been addressed in the latest installment in issue 4403. And the photos of teh flanging make the process a lot clearer, it would have been nice to have included these with the relevant text rather than almost a half page devoted to showing taper, 2nd and plug taps.

There is one items in part 3 that do not agree with the drawings.

The text says to turn the flanged angles down to 3/8″ wide. This should be 3/8 less half the spoke thickness if the rims are to be 3/4″ overall width.

Jason
1 June 2011 at 21:45 #69562
Sean Cullen
Participant
@seancullen60833
A group (well 3) of us local to me are very interested in the portable and have been discussing the articles. We all await the next part, which we hope will clarify matters further. One of our number has been doing more than the other two, haing had a go at drawing the hubs correctly. I received the following from him by email and pass it on as a possible diffculty. Of course, this may become clear in the next part or we may have missed something, comments are most welcome

Hi Sean,
Had a bit of spare time at work so I thought I would have a go at machining a hub for the portable and have come across another small problem. If you tap the holes 6ba for the spokes a 6ba countersunk will not screw flush with the 1mm thick spoke due to the flank angle. I think it will be possible to face off the protruding screws after it has all been fully assembled but an alternative would be to use smaller countersunk screws. Just a thought.

Steve….
2 June 2011 at 07:55 #69577
JasonB
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@jasonb
Why is he using 1.0mm steel, depending on what method and material used then the articles say 18swg (waste from the rims)which equates to 1.2mm or if rolling from angle then 1/16″ (stock thickness) which would be 1.5mm. May still be a problem though.

You could always overdrill the CSK hole, the spokes will still be held radially you the csk faces of teh screw & hole, easier than trying to file or turn flush.

Looking at the photos of Adams wheels on the site he has got his screws in OK but looking at them they are probably metric and I think his spokes are over thick.

Jason
3 June 2011 at 21:52 #69650
Sean Cullen
Participant
@seancullen60833
Jason,

I will ask, I think it was because he had some material of that thckness going spare and time to experiment.

The person in question is a very highly talented and experienced toolmaker – for an example of his work try the following link to video of a small hit and miss engine he has made from scratch, no castings at all

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YV9yEF8nq2g

Sean
4 June 2011 at 07:31 #69655
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Thought something like that would be the case, just pointed it out as it may not be an issue with the ME drawings but a consequence of changing one thing that affects another.

I like the farmboy design, its one of the better barstock engines as it looks like its from castings particularly when painted up. I did something similar when I built the zero-six that was in MEB and fabricated it all to look a bit like a Galloway, as you can see it looks a different engine.

J
7 June 2011 at 07:59 #69856
Styx
Participant
@styx
Jason,

Just like to say what a wonderful job you have done on this engine, it looks nothing like the original.

Being a stationary engine fan there are loads of questions I would like to ask about this engine!

I must say that the MEB mag looks very good. Do you subscribe to it?

Steve…..builder of the Farm boy
7 June 2011 at 17:19 #69894
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Thanks for the complements, few more pics of it here apart from the flywheels which are Stuart 7″ jobbies it was all fabricated by welding, brazing and silver soldering and a bit of JB Weld to tidy it up. PM me or start another thread with any questions to save hijacking this one.

Yes I have subscribed from the start and find it a good mag, publication times were a bit haphazard at first but now they are a bit more regular. Latest issue was probably teh best to date with plenty to read and 14 double sided A3 drawing sheets. You usually get complete drawings for at least one engine per issue sometimes its spread over two issues. This one has a very nice 3 cyl radial.

J
8 June 2011 at 15:21 #69936
PETER AYERS
Participant
@peterayers98304
What is MEB? it is a magazine I have not heard of

and I have been taking ME for over 30 years, and EIM for over 20.
8 June 2011 at 16:14 #69941
David Clark 13
Participant
@davidclark13
Hi Peter

Midlands Electricity Board?

Might be Model Engine Builder.

regards david
8 June 2011 at 17:21 #69945
JasonB
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@jasonb
Peter you may have been taking ME for a long time but obviusly don’t read the adverts as Model Engine Builder do advertise in there

Jason
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