Wall repair

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Wall repair

This topic has 14 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 14 March 2011 at 11:53 by Richard Parsons.

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13 March 2011 at 17:41 #65421
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
Hello all, can anyone shed any light on my problem? At the end of my garden I have a retaining wall (see sketch) which on my side is below ground apart from 1 row of bricks on the top above ground.On the other side my neighbours there is a 4’6 inch drop,the wall is about 200 years old and getting rather rickerty! The top row of bricks are very loose and flakey. I need to effect a repair to the wall with the minimum of fuss and disruption to myself and my neighbour,I was thinking of drilling down into the wall and inserting rebar and concreting over the top with a bit of shuttering. Can anyone think of a better idea.

Thanks Pailo
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13 March 2011 at 17:41 #21818
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
13 March 2011 at 17:54 #65423
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Provided the drilling does not loosen any other bricks then you should be OK. I would drill at least 18″ down into the wall and resin bond the rebar into the holes. Bend the ends of the rebar 90deg and then tie in some lengths along the top to act as a ring beam.

If you make one side of the shutter 1/2″ higher than the other this wil weather the top and don’t forget a drip groove on the overhanging side to stop water running back onto the wall.

j
13 March 2011 at 17:55 #65424
Colin Jacobs 1
Participant
@colinjacobs1
Sounds like your bricks have become frost damaged, what lies underneath?. You could do what u have planned but the wall could fall over causing injury or death. Get professional advice would be my next step.
13 March 2011 at 18:40 #65430
Steve Garnett
Participant
@stevegarnett62550
If it’s a single brick thickness, 200 years old and 4’6″ high, I’d be very reluctant to try drilling holes in it. How long is the wall? If it’s more than 10-12ft it should ideally be butressed anyway. Colin’s absolutely right – this could be potentially lethal, and with a wall like that the best thing to do is to start over. That way, you know what you’ve actually got, rather than guessing at it.

A few years back I faced a similar problem, only on a sligtly smaller scale. I replaced the dodgy wall with hollow concrete blocks on a new foundation, having dug away some of the soil from behind it (leaving a large concrete ramp unsupported, but what the heck, nobody was standing on it!) and then backfilled it up to the wall afterwards. It was only 10ft wide, and relatively low at about 2ft, but if it had been higher I would definitely have buttressed it. I’ve seen what happens when a brick wall collapses on somebody, and it’s not pretty.
13 March 2011 at 18:42 #65431
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
Hi Colin, I don’t think that the wall will fall over,it stops my garden sliding into my neighbours garden,if it did fall down it would slide into his shed,the wall is a bit like a Ha Ha.Most of the damage has been caused by ivy roots,the use of lime mortar below ground level.I just need to stabilise the top row of bricks.

Regards Pailo.
13 March 2011 at 18:47 #65432
Steve Garnett
Participant
@stevegarnett62550
I think it’s rather more likely that it would fall over and crash into his shed, destroying whatever it came into contact with! Sliding is one thing that walls aren’t inclined to do.
13 March 2011 at 18:48 #65433
MichaelR
Participant
@michaelr
I agree with Steve a total re build would be the best course of action on a wall that old and as you say “rickerty”.
13 March 2011 at 19:37 #65439
Nicholas Farr
Participant
@nicholasfarr14254
Hi Pailo, might be wise to seek advice from a structural surveyor, but don’t ask a buider who’s looking for work. Old walls are very often stronger than they look. I think your idea sounds plausable, but do bear in mind Jason’s suggestions. I don’t suppose making it a course or two higher to make sure its above your ground level would hurt.

Regards Nick.
13 March 2011 at 20:23 #65444
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
Hi Steve,a total rebuild of the wall is not really practical as there is restricted access down on the open side,due to the neighbours shed which is only a foot or so away.The lower portion of wall is solid,it’s only the top couple of courses,and mainly the top course which are loose.The wall it’s self is slightly concaved towards my garden so falling over is not a problem. I believe that the wall is thicker towards the bottom than it is at the top but I can’t say for sure as it is below the level of my garden.

Pailo.
13 March 2011 at 20:43 #65446
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
If as you say its just the top brick on edge and possibley the courses below then I see no reason for a rebulid and capping off with either concrete or a few coarses of brick will likely be fine.

Jason

OND & HNC in Building construction

Member Guild of master craftsmen

CIOB drop out

One time Surveyor/contracts manager now happier working with his hands doing high class bespoke kitchens bathrooms & cabinet making
13 March 2011 at 21:16 #65447
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
Hi Jason,I am going to attempt the drill and rebar and capping off with concrete method,I am fairly sure that the lower portion of wall will stand drilling. The only problem is holding the shuttering on the neighbours side,will have to work on that one for a bit,maybe I can use some deep clamps or threaded bar with some big washers to hold both sides together.

Pailo.
14 March 2011 at 00:17 #65457
Nicholas Farr
Participant
@nicholasfarr14254
Hi Pailo, I did wonder if it was concaved like you say, as I’ve seen similar. You may even find it is concaved on your side as well, (but I wouldn’t dig the garden to find out) that would help distribute the weight of the soil downwards, bit like curves in a pressure vessel.

I’d go for it.

Regards Nick.
14 March 2011 at 07:17 #65461
Raymond Anderson
Participant
@raymondanderson34407
Palio,

Being a time served bricklayer I could offer you a solution but, I would need a little more info such as, is the wall all brick or only the coping course, is it stone, how thick is the wall, All these things dictate how/if you can insert rebar or if it would have to be dowels which are never inserted as deep as the rebar and are always Stainless steel. If you could give me the answers then I could give you a solution.

Regards,

Raymond.
14 March 2011 at 11:53 #65473
Richard Parsons
Participant
@richardparsons61721
Palio Hi

The real problem is whose wall is it? Your deeds should tell you. If it is your neighbour’s wall then it is his problem. If it is yours then you have to fix it. If it is a joint wall then you have to do something you both agree on. If it is his wall and you dicker with it then you are responsible for any real (or imagined) damage.

You say it has stood for 200 years. There is a plastic substance that can be poured/pumped into and be absorbed by old brick work which would do the trick. I saw it used once on an ancient brick structure (350 years old) in an undershot mill wheel vault. As far as I know it is still standing after some 40 later. By the way there is a similar substance that can effectively repair rotten wood. It also works well. I used it some 40 years ago to fix some rotten windows. From Google Earth I see they are still standing.

Good luck

Dick
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