Yes its a friction fit. For longevity keep it clean of swarf, but yes a tap with a rubber mallet can help. You don't need to swing it like thor, just a tap.

I've made a small hammer for tapping and aligning things (brass headed) which I keep hung up near the lathe; I've made the handle length right for popping down the centre of the tailstock for tapping the taper back out.

the 3MT is for the headstock
double check that the barrel of the tailstock doesn’t rotate its only stopped by the small grub screw in the slot – this needs a nut to lock it in place
also check that the taper on the arbor is not damaged as well as check the tailstock – also the fitting of the tailstock screw may mean that you need extend the barrel a little so that the arbor will fit properly otherwise it is prevented by the screw – on my 180 with most arbours it means the barrel needs to be extended about 12mm. You shouldn’t need to thump it just a hard push and it will hold but do watch it doesn’t rotate in the barrel if the drill catches (eg drilling brass)and scars it – if it had then buy a 2MT reamer and very gently clean the barrel
ETA if the arbour has a screw thread (eg as used in mills) either buy an 10mm end from Arc or make one as if you forget it you need to dismantle the tailstock to release the arbor-

Edited By Frances IoM on 04/05/2021 18:55:07

Edited By Frances IoM on 04/05/2021 19:00:59

Nice new tapers should hold OK under momentum if you just "flick" it in. Moderate thump is generally for when things get old and, inevitably, a bit grubby and a bit worn.

Three gotchas:-

1) Most tailstocks have a slot at the end of the internal taper to accommodate the tang. Some also have a cross hole for an extractor wedge like a drill quill. Need to line the tang up with the slot before the arbor will go in. Slot is usually either horizontal or vertical. I have two lathes and the slot on one one is horizontal the other is vertical.

2) Pretty much all lathes with a closed back end to the tailstock poppet use the tailstock feed screw to eject the taper when the poppet is close to fully retracted. If you have the poppet pulled back too far the tang on the arbor contacts the end of the feed screw before the taper is fully home. So the drill chuck taper can't go in far enough to lock. Typically ejection happens in the last 1/2" to 1" of tailstock poppet travel. Usually nearer 1/2".

3) Some lathes don't have a slot for the tang so you have to use plain ended tapers or screw a threaded plug into the end so the self eject has something to push on. Unlikely to be the case with your machine. If it were so Warco would have given you a flat end arbor. Not common because it stops you using morse taper drills.

Clive

PS Need to type faster!

Edited By Clive Foster on 04/05/2021 18:57:30

my WM180 has flat end arbors – no tang

If the machine is new it is probably worth degreasing the socket and chuck taper, lubrication is not your friend with a morse taper.

Mike

Some checking for contact areas, with engineer’s blue might be appropriate? Arbors and sockets have been known to not match. I have had this experience, which is why I am very selective on the origin of such close tolerance items. Don’t necessarily expect cheap chinese components to be accurate.

I recently commissioned a keyless chuck with B16 taper hole in back, was struck by how far the thick end of the taper arbor projected from the chuck so went to the trouble of turning my own arbor.

The point is apparent from the OP's photo.