Tilting/rotating frame design

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Tilting/rotating frame design

This topic has 11 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 12 October 2020 at 11:15 by IanT.

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10 October 2020 at 18:04 #500587
John Bj
Participant
@johnbj
I was considering making a rotating frame to simplify the maintenance of my 5” gauge loco. I have some ideas about how to go about this but have not seen any designs. Grateful for any suggestions or links from the experts out there.

John
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10 October 2020 at 18:04 #1968
John Bj
Participant
@johnbj
Locomotive maintenance
10 October 2020 at 18:30 #500595
Essm
Participant
@essm
John, if you have a look at " Model Engineers Laser " site there is a listing in the kits section for parts for a 5" Building frame

Regards
10 October 2020 at 19:00 #500601
Maurice Taylor
Participant
@mauricetaylor82093
Hi,

Look up “building stand” in forum search, there is a couple of photos there.

Maurice
10 October 2020 at 19:11 #500604
Bazyle
Participant
@bazyle
Hi John, you seem to be new to the forum. Great to see you here.

It is worth reading lots and lots of the old posts. If you find 'latest posts' just at the top of this thread you get a time list of posts, goes back to 1066 probably. Just read a week of posts every day and you will learn a load.

If you want a particular topic go to the home page and use the search box there which is better than the one on this page – strange but true.
10 October 2020 at 21:36 #500630
IanT
Participant
@iant
Hi John,

I built the 2.5" gauge (for my Gauge '3' engines) version of the MEL engine stand a few years ago. It works well and the laser-cut parts saved a good deal of construction time. There may be simpler ways to do this but the MEL kit worked well for me. I assume that the 5" version will be very similar but just scaled up a bit.

The kit came with two 1 metre lengths of '2020' extrusion as the base. I found this to be a little too long, so cut one 2020 length in half and made a new base with a fixed end and a double sliding section. It's a little easier to move around now but will still take all the engines I have (or plan {some distant day} to build). You may need the two full 1 metre lengths for 5" engines of course.

I mostly brass-brazed the kit but it could have been fully silver-brazed – and Malcolm says it can be assembled with 2-part epoxy too if required. Have a look in my photo album ("Brazing" ) for some idea of the construction.

Here's the modified G3 version I now use…one end is fixed – the other can slide, as can part of the base if required. The "spare" 2020 section is going towards the construction my new (replacement) rolling road.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 10/10/2020 21:48:53
10 October 2020 at 21:48 #500632
IanT
Participant
@iant
Here is a photo of the frame in use (before the recent mods).

The circular plate to the right-hand side is the locking plate – the loco is rotated by loosening the hand nut that locks this – and the engine can then be gently spun for access. I don't know if the 5" MEL version has some form of geared rotation. I've seen some stand designs that have. It's not necessary with 2.5" engines. As you can see, it does make access to an engine much more convenient when working on piping etc.

Regards,

IanT
10 October 2020 at 22:44 #500650
russell davies
Participant
@russelldavies78088
Hi John

Have a look at https://supersimplex.yolasite.com/Construction-Stand.php. Maybe this will suit your requirements. I've not made the stand myself, so pass this information on without comment.

Russell
11 October 2020 at 15:56 #500798
Bazyle
Participant
@bazyle
Does anyone try modifying the rotation point during build to keep the rotation point balanced both for weight and/or clearance?
Also looking at Ian's picture I think I might want an option of a point for the axle lower in the frame during the early stages.
Probably over thinking this now but pondering on a cantelever design, sort of square C shape, so there is no framework in front of the pivot to block your arm.
11 October 2020 at 16:44 #500812
duncan webster 1
Participant
@duncanwebster1
Posted by Bazyle on 11/10/2020 15:56:39:

Does anyone try modifying the rotation point during build to keep the rotation point balanced both for weight and/or clearance?

I bolted a counterweight to the frame on mine to allow for the boiler not being on.
12 October 2020 at 10:30 #500934
John Bj
Participant
@johnbj
Thanks everyone for the all the responses to my question. I now have a few new ideas on going forward. Just to add some more information my 5" gauge tank engine is 54" long and weighs in excess of 100kg. Normally it lives on a substantial mobile steel angle frame and my idea was to add height adjustable supports at each end of the frame so I can lift and then turn the engine into the required position. Duncan's point about moveable pivots points is likely to be a very valid one!

Thanks John B
12 October 2020 at 11:15 #500947
IanT
Participant
@iant
I'd agree John – at 220lbs, some way to lift the engine into position would be a necessity.

This isn't an issue with Gauge 3 of course, as I can normally just lift the engine into position. The 'movable' pivot points might be a requirement for a large 'free' spinning engine but perhaps less so if worm-geared rotation was available, provided the frame was sufficiently well supported, such that it could not topple (if out of balance).

Regards,

IanT

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