Harold Hall has instructions on his web site.

Paul

**LINK**

I bought one off a well known auction site, it was actually broken but was able to repair it. Could not get on with it, and also prefer freehand! Many years ago I was taught to sharpen shears, scissors knives and drill etc by a itinernterant knife sharpener, who called once a week at the shop and did whatever had come in. He did appear on 'What's my Line' at the time!

Narrow cup wheel seems to work best with all forms of swing across the wheel jig. The mathematics of the various various geometrical approximations assume the actual grinding face passing over the wheel is of zero width. Impossible in the real world but having the drill leave the active grinding area at exactly the same radius is the practical equivalent thereof.

This condition is met when grinding off the side of a grinding wheel if the side is perfectly flat and perfectly aligned at 90° to the swinging drill carrier arm when it is in its central position. Using the wheel must inevitably put some dish, however minor, in the drill sharpening area so the condition must eventually fail. How much dish is needed before the point geometry becomes unsatisfactory is a topic that never seems to be addressed.

Alignment of jig to wheel also seems to be somewhat glossed over. My Picador sits on a fabricated U section guide under the base to get the height right and constrain movement to the correct axis. I imagine the General, Spiralux and other versions having a tilted pivot are sensitive to the alignment of the pivot relative to the wheel face but the subject is pretty much ignored in the instructions.

Clive.

Edited By Clive Foster on 07/08/2018 10:02:59

Edited By Clive Foster on 07/08/2018 10:03:24

Re: your 2 queries about the Reliance.
(1) You shouldn't need any spacer for shorter drills. Take off the end stop and replace it so the triangular part now points forward, to lay along the groove as below:-

(2) Looking at the images of your 2 drills, it doesn't appear there's enough back-off from the cutting edges. As there's no adjustment on the jig for the angle ~ are following the Reliance instructions for overhang vs. diameter? Also you must pull the drill carrier back against the stop i.e. towards you with the lip aligned vertically as described. Then advance the whole jig up to the wheel so it's just touching. Release the little knurled screw and push back the drill carrier to traverse the wheel. Then of course advance the "cut" with the bottom screw after slackening the others before retightening.

In the above image, there's a new Dormer 10mm drill against the wheel. You might just about be able to see the angle is correct.

Edit: I ought to have paid more attention to your post and images. I now see you have a smaller Reliance jig and therefore the comments above may not be applicable. IF you ever spot a larger size Reliance for sale,
snap it up !!

Edited By Fowlers Fury on 07/08/2018 22:51:48

"It doesn't have the triangular shaped stop."
Not querying that and sorry for any confusion. It was just that your picture at first sight appeared to show the same type of end-stop as mine but closer examination then revealed the differences – hence the edit.
Would it be worth drilling your end-stop for a silver steel rod, secured by a screw somehow? I''ve considered doing that on mine when sharpening the ends of short centre drills, thus avoiding an imprecise loose "spacer" in the jig.

Steve., apologies unnecessary.
"How I missed it is beyond me but miss it I did"
That's the story of my life. Tonight I've just milled a radial slot 90deg out.
Totally obvious from the drawing "….but miss it I did"

I wouldn't call mine engraved, more of a slot about 1/32" wide and deep.