If you are keen to have one you could make something very similar a lot more cheaply, this type is made from an "Lidl" type drill stand/press:

And instructions on how to make it by Mike Cox: Pillar Tool

Harold Hall has his own design here: Tapping stand with Automatic feed

I made the version that uses the Lidl type drill stand works well.

Paul

I think if I was going to go down this route I would build the tapping fixture that Harold Hall describes in one of his books – I think it is in the Workshop Projects book in the Workshop Practise Series. It's mode of operation seems very good and sensible, it's cheaper as it's only materials you are buying, some of which you may already have, and you would have the satisfaction of making something yourself that works and is very useful.

Chris

Brian

OK I have a similar one…. an yes it does get used.

I bought it as a set of castings, see HERE , many years ago when I was first interested in Model Engineering and, like you, had no access to a workshop. At that time the local college ran "Model Engineering" evening classes – which were really "come along and use our machines and get advice from experts" sessions. Construction of the tool was a useful exercise and it does have its uses. You will see that there are all sorts of modifications/ attachments to make it more "useful" but I think the most valuable function use is in the making.

Regards

Norman

I have this one, made from stuff from the "cuminandy" box. Actually used it today to tap 18 M3 holes.

Base is from an old Wolfcraft mini-drill stand, twin arm is an old countershaft bracket, column is 1" ground steel.

But don't buy one ready made, save the cash for something more useful.

I bought one years ago, never used it, save your money for something more useful.

All a beginner needs is a cotton reel, a few pens and the like as sleeves for smaller taps etc. If you want to get fancy make your own cotton reel.

I have a Universal Pillar Tool and it is brilliant. It has three different tap holders:

• "The big one" which has is fitted with a drill chuck and a Tee bar which gives you something to get your hand on with really big taps to encourage them.
• "The medium one" which has a knurled top and the end off an eclipse pin chuck. I was not at first convinced by this as the taps do not seem to be that secure but actually again the knurling is in the right proportion to the size tap you are likely to be using so less likely to cause breakages.
• "The diddy one" I have not used this one but it is for taps that are best described as pins with raspy bits down the outside.

The UPT holds the Tap 100% square to the work and since I have been using it I have not broken a single tap. I would be a little concerned with the statement on one of those products: "This Tapping Fixture holds taps relatively square to the base so threads are cut straight every time".

You do not want to put the work in a vice for tapping smaller items hold it securely against the bed with your hand, it will let you have a better feel of what is happening.

Jo

It seems to me that views are split between "I can't manage without one" and "it's a waste of money". My own view is as per the latter!

In general, whenever I want to ensure my taps start cutting square I simply drill the hole (using my pillar drill) with the appropriate tapping drill, remove the drill and chuck the tap, then TURNING THE DRILL CHUCK BY HAND, start the tap off in the hole using the lever feed on the drill to apply downward pressure until the tap bites after which it will pull itself into the work. You only need a couple of turns to ensure the tap starts off straight. Then, unscrew the tap, unchuck it and move onto the next hole, repeating as necessary. Of course to do this, your work needs to be clamped down, or held in the drill vice. I use the same technique, even with small taps (i.e. M1.2) and in steel!

Regards Tom

Hi Jo,

Your first paragraph connects nicely with the second paragraph. The words 'relatively square' fits the bill for the tapping fixture which we sell. Reasons/examples as follows:

SMEE members in London did a 'group purchase' of six pieces one year. I explained to them that this product is a bit like marmite. There is a particular feature, which you like or hate.

The aluminium box section arm through which the spindle goes through in clamped to the column. After clamping, it still allows the arm to move side to side, even though it stays locked on the column. Depending on your point of view, this is a good thing especially if you do not have a steady hand and you are using very small and fine taps. If the arm is locked and does not move, and if the hole in the work piece to be tapped is not square to the tap and held rigid in a vice or clamped down, then the probability of the tap breaking are high. The converse – 'not a good thing' for the arm to move side to side, which could also break the tap for different reasons.

However, once purchased, some of the users did not like the fact that the arm moved from side to side, even though this was explained at the exhibition, pre-sell. These got re-sold internally to other members who liked the idea of the arm moving from side to side!

This product was initially introduced by Micro-Mark in the U.S.. The original spindle as supplied by various traders, is not perfectly round. Hence we buy the steel which is used for the spindle locally, and put on the JT taper on one end, and a better hand wheel on the other. It is smoother, and 'as round' a stock as you can get. However, for certain customers who demand 'high precision' this is still not good enough for under £50.00.

Hence the phrase 'relatively square' was born. At the end of the day, we still believe that the threads made using this fixture will be more accurate than tapping free-hand. This is an economical solution, which may suite some customers requirements and not others.

If you need a tapping fixture or not is a different question, but even by appearances, it doesn't fall into the 'Chocolate Fireguard' category

Ketan at ARC

Another method I use for getting taps square

is very simple indeed drill a hole the clearance dia of the tap

in a scrap piece of metal clamp it down with tool makers clamps

over the hole to be tapped and bobs your uncle use that as a guide

works very well

Best Wishes Martin