I make file handles from yew and dip them in shellac. Yew finishes well and the shellac gives a really hard durable finish.

In one of Guy Lautard's books there is a formula to make the ideal file handle to fit your hand. Sometimes that makes for a large diameter handle! Worth looking at if you have a woodlathe.

Aandries

I like the unvarnished wooden handles that are available now, They don't slip and they don't make your hand sweaty.

But then not many people file, or have pride in their filing anymore.

Don't varnish or paint file handles, nasty and slippy. We had to make handles from worn out brushes, not easy to get now. I make mine from an old chair leg, still got a few left. Copper plumbing pipe for ferrules . NB a big handle, even for a small file, is better than small,

I store my files in "tubes", horizontally slung under a shelf, so I can only see their ends. While I recognise my favourite ones, I decided to add a "logo" on their ends to make it easier to select a less used one .

The nicest handles I have are undoubtedly some flattish plastic handles that were made 40 years ago, never seen them since!

Frank

When I used to practice Aikdo I found that varnished wooden weapons would give me blisters while those finished with linseed oil gave a good grip without blisters. I've used linseed oil on tool handles ever since.

Russell.

I guess soon it won't be legal to sell a file without a handle and that will then be a moulded plastic blob. I was in a hardware shop a few years ago when a kid was refused a wire brush. Bet his dad was happy when he had to go out himself for it.

We had the plain wood 'python' handles at one place I worked. Oddly enough I seem to have enough of this type around for most files though I also have a few home made ones including my favourite turned from hawthorn. Is it a bit sad that on a 'make things' forum we even consider not just making something so simple?

Michael,

You can get Shellac from here

Michael

– ready mix French polish will work well, though the bottle caps can be a nuisance, as they all seem to be the childproof variety. It is readily available in hardware stores, and you may find a choice of colour tint available.

– Raw linseed oil is much slower drying than boiled, which is processed and has driers added. I was taught that Raw should be used for outdoor applications, such as garden tools, structures, etc., with Boiled used for fine wooden furniture, tool handles, gun stocks etc. Raw seems to develop a deeper amber colour over time. In practice, I have used both for everything, including wiping over the bare steel parts of garden tools, and did not note any adverse effects. A true woodworker will probably disagree with me!

– Python file handles seem to be still readily available from various tool dealers, and last forever. I prefer the bare wood which soon acquires a dark workshop patina as the grime is transferred from hand to tool. When making my own handles I have found beech very reliable, easy to turn and readily available from old furniture. Years ago I was given some Boxwood which I used for small handles, wonderful stuff, but may not be an economical choice now. Ferrules from copper , brass, steel tube, I used to collect any odd ends just for this purpose.

Dave