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New mill being delivered…

This topic has 27 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 9 September 2013 at 18:31 by Thor 🇳🇴.

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2 September 2013 at 10:40 #17155
Chris Parsons
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@chrisparsons64193
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2 September 2013 at 10:40 #128404
Chris Parsons
Participant
@chrisparsons64193
My new mill is being delivered on Friday (wahoo) and I am trying to anticipate what I need to get started, with the proviso that having just stumped up a lot of money *sob* I am looking for the minimum at the moment?

I have bought an ER32 collet chuck, collets from 6 – 12mm, a set of workpiece clamps, and will nip up to Tracy Tools in the next couple of days to get some HSS end and slot mills – they do sets from 3 – 12mm which I thought would get me started, perhaps with a few extra spares – not sure which sizes to get extra having said that….

I have the normal stuff for using with my lathe, measuring, marking out and so on – can anyone suggest anything else that they would consider to be really essential to get going?

Thanks

Chris
2 September 2013 at 10:55 #128405
jason udall
Participant
@jasonudall57142
Something to chew on other than the bed or work holding?…..
2 September 2013 at 11:28 #128408
MICHAEL WILLIAMS
Participant
@michaelwilliams41215
Hi Chris ,

(1) Machine vice – easy enough to make if money is tight .

(2) Avoid cheap selections of milling cutters .

You can get quality cutters for not much more .

(3) Flycutter and or an inserted bit facing cutter .

(4) Cutting oil and means of applying – brush or squeeze bottle will do .

(5) Parallels and packing .

Need not be bought as such but build up a stock of useful bits of bar for supporting work .

Lots more things may be needed but just acquire as needed .

Regards ,

MikeW
2 September 2013 at 12:51 #128416
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
DTI to set the work and vice true.

Edge & centre finders

J

Edited By JasonB on 02/09/2013 13:36:20
2 September 2013 at 13:09 #128419
Geoff Theasby
Participant
@geofftheasby
A drill chuck…?

Regards,

Geoff
2 September 2013 at 13:21 #128420
mechman48
Participant
@mechman48
Chris

What mill are you getting?

ER 32 collet sets come with up to 20mm dia cutter collets, have you bought them separate? could end up more expensive buying them individually?

Rotating tailstock center !

Regards

George
2 September 2013 at 14:06 #128424
PekkaNF
Participant
@pekkanf
Two pieces of advice:

1) Stop spending. Don't buy any cheap tools until you absolutely need them. Then buy ONLY tools you need and quality.

2) If you are any new to milling buy a book "Milling: A Complete Course" Harold Hall. And in meantime visit his site:

http://homews.co.uk/page463.html

Some of the clamps and other workholding equipment can be bought, but quite a bit is least as good when made at home.

PekkaNF
2 September 2013 at 14:14 #128425
Thor 🇳🇴
Participant
@thor
Hi Chris,

I agree with the advice given by MikeW. If you want to make your own vice here are a few webplaces that may be of interest:

Screwless vice, another one, I made a similar one myself. Dean's version.

One from CNC zone

Regards

Thor

Edited By Thor on 02/09/2013 14:22:46
2 September 2013 at 14:15 #128426
Chris Parsons
Participant
@chrisparsons64193
Jason U – I smiled and then thought good point, most of my 'stock' is round bar!

Michael – I am going to have a go at making a 'split' vice as in Howard Hall's book so I can mount work directly on the table, and hold off on the commercial vice – they are expensive (looked at a Vertex VA4 but think it might be too big for the table?) Already got a flycutter on a straight shank but may eventually get one with a taper. Got cutting fluid (use it on lathe and bench drill) Got parallels but good point about packing – might also make some of my own clamps/fences (good practise)

Good source for quality cutters? With no experience it's hard to judge good or bad…most of the stuff I get from Tracy Tools seems OK?

Jason B – Already got a dial indicator, DTI and an edge finder but not centre finder (yet) Bought a mount to fit the DTI to the quill (looks like an Indicol?)

Geoff – comes with a drill chuck fortunately (one less thing to buy)

George – got an ER32 set from ArcEuroTrade with chuck and 6 collets in case – 6, 8, 10, 12, 16 and 20mm? Rotating tailstock center??? I have one for the lathe but it's MT2, what would I use this for on a mill? Oh, and the mill is a Sieg SX3

Thanks for all the suggestions, if you don't ask you never learn

One other thing is the issue about clouting the drawbar to get the (MT3) taper out – been trying to visualise the various posts about self extracting drawbar modications

I went for MT3 in the end so I could use the tooling on the lathe

Cheers

Chris
2 September 2013 at 14:55 #128431
Russell Eberhardt
Participant
@russelleberhardt48058
My most useful accesory, after the assorted clamps (homemade) is the angle plate.

Russell.
2 September 2013 at 15:49 #128438
GaryM
Participant
@garym
An IKEA Jansjo lamp? £10

Gary
2 September 2013 at 22:00 #128464
Sub Mandrel
Participant
@submandrel
Most used accessory?

After the vice (with apologies to Harold "Clamp Evangelist" Hall!) my home made ER25 chucks, my self releasing drawbar and then my rotary table (but I do like making gears and wheels etc.)

Neil

To be fair to Harold, he's obviously travelled the road to Damascus, having just given us a series on milling vices!

Edited By Stub Mandrel on 02/09/2013 22:01:47
2 September 2013 at 23:03 #128468
GaryM
Participant
@garym
A simple mod I made to mine was to add four M12 washers to the X-axis feed handle to keep the dog clutch permanently engaged.

Gary
3 September 2013 at 02:51 #128475
Geoff Theasby
Participant
@geofftheasby
Re: clouting the drawbar to release the taper. I have suggested using a rubber hammer, but I find now that it is less effective than using a light steel hammer to tap the drawbar end. Not a heavy blow, just enough to release it. This implies that you don't need to tighten the spindle very much in the first place. Just nip it up. You will soon get the feel of it.

Geoff
3 September 2013 at 10:53 #128491
Robbo
Participant
@robbo
Just a point on hitting the drawbar. Hard faced Thorex mallet is the thing. If you use a metal hammer, be sure to wind the drawbar nut up to the top of the threads so as not to burr the thread over.

Phil
3 September 2013 at 11:01 #128493
Paul Lousick
Participant
@paullousick59116
I have the same mill and also chose a 3MT version so I could use my lathe tools. Don't overtighten the drawbar. I use an aluminium hammer to release the tools but cringe every time I hit it.

As previously said, buy quality tooling as you need them. Keep an eye on e-bay for good used tools. A quality used tool is far better than new asian junk. You can also make lots of your own.

Happy machining.
3 September 2013 at 11:06 #128495
Russell Eberhardt
Participant
@russelleberhardt48058
Posted by Paul Lousick on 03/09/2013 11:01:25:

I use an aluminium hammer to release the tools but cringe every time I hit it.

Same here, but I always lock the quill before hitting it to keep the shock, such as it is, off the rack.

Russell.
3 September 2013 at 11:25 #128497
Chris Parsons
Participant
@chrisparsons64193
Thanks for the additional information – I have both of Howard Hall's milling books, excellent guides – and will be making a good bit of the tooling myself

Think perhaps I am worrying about the drawbar removal too much, I will not overdo it and I already have a copper/hide hammer which I will use to save the drawbar top and locking the quill first is an excellent suggestion

Thanks Thor for the links to the vices – the first one was an excellent site, keep me busy for months, there is loads of stuff on there I am thinking about having a go at now

Think I have worked out the principle of the self releasing drawbar now so this is an alternative too

I don't subscribe to any of the options so missed the series on milling vices which was mentioned – and even if I did now would not get the 'back issues' ??

Two days and counting…

Chris
3 September 2013 at 14:14 #128506
GaryM
Participant
@garym
Chris, the drawbar on the X3 doesn't have exposed threads on the top end. It's a hex socket and so unlikely to damaged. I went for the R8 as a result of reading many threads on which taper to choose. Never needs more than a light tap.

Gary
3 September 2013 at 15:16 #128509
Bazyle
Participant
@bazyle
Doesn't the X3 have a slot in the quill for MT3 tool 'persuasion'? I keep forgetting it is there on my old Warco minor.

The other thing for tool removal is a pair of those U shaped wedges.
4 September 2013 at 21:33 #128606
Norman Lorton
Participant
@normanlorton75928
I do apologise to all you MT3 people, but I agree with Gary. I am sure that the MT3 works fine in holding tooling but R8 holds and then lets go when you want it to.

Edited By Norman Lorton on 04/09/2013 21:40:31
4 September 2013 at 21:45 #128607
Sub Mandrel
Participant
@submandrel
That's exactly what the MT series tapers were designed for.But a different philosophy. MT series are self-holding tapers, R8 and INT30 are not self-holding and need drawbar for all uses.I have not had any problems with removing MT3 since I made a self-ejecting drawbar that puts no strain whatever on the bearings.

Neil
9 September 2013 at 13:47 #129045
Chris Parsons
Participant
@chrisparsons64193
A final thank you to everyone for all the advice – the new mill was delivered on Friday, dismantled, moved to it's home and cleaned, lubricated and reassembled and was making chips on Saturday afternoon so I am a very happy man – now all I have to do is learn how to use it!

Here are a couple of photos, as it was delivered

and installed ready for use

…and yes, it was very heavy and I was glad of the help to lift the base and column onto the stand, thank you Gary!

Chris

Edited By Chris Parsons on 09/09/2013 14:03:08
9 September 2013 at 14:03 #129049
Russell Eberhardt
Participant
@russelleberhardt48058
Enjoy

Russell.
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