Terry Whats wrong with it ?

Roy

It may be that the cones have just got stuck together through lack of use.

Take it apart and give it a good clean, it probably wont have much wrong with it.

Phil

Hi Dennis

"…..are you a Terry or a Michael"

Sorry – I'm lost.

Good advice on the later clutch though.

Norman

Edited By NJH on 20/01/2013 17:51:25

Michael

I have sent you a PM

(Sign in, Go to the box at top left " My Account" and click on " My Messages" to locate your In box.)

regards

Norman

there is a chap in leeds now regrinding myfords

Hi Dennis

> On no account at this stage release the central nut on the end of the modern cone clutch (as implied by early answers). You could have a push-rod fly across the room, and you will not be able to get it all back together without a fancy (special) spring compresser.

Could you go in to more detail on this please? My S7B has a problem with the cone clutch – running out of adjustment at the outer nut/slotted end of pushrod, noisy operation – and from examination of the parts catalogue and the manual I have suspected that what you describe would indeed happen, and clutch bits would disappear to remote corners of the workshop if I attempted to dismantle it.

Yours sounds like the voice of bitter experience! Any practical advice on dismantling this box of tricks, please? Can you describe the spring compressor?

Thanks
John

Edited By jwb on 21/01/2013 10:36:16

For jwb, Michael C, and anyone else with S7 clutch problems

Quote from jwb:

"Could you go in to more detail on this please? My S7B has a problem with the cone clutch – running out of adjustment at the outer nut/slotted end of pushrod, noisy operation – and from examination of the parts catalogue and the manual I have suspected that what you describe would indeed happen, and clutch bits would disappear to remote corners of the workshop if I attempted to dismantle it.
Yours sounds like the voice of bitter experience! Any practical advice on dismantling this box of tricks, please? Can you describe the spring compressor?"

Sorry jwb, but I but I do not live on the internet. I only log on every couple of days or so.

You both need the two bearings at the right hand end of the countershaft. I can only assume that Eddy Spriggs method above works. I was lucky to get mine done as part of a bed regrind by Myford just before they went down (very sad).
The problem is the spring inside the countershaft. Uncompressed, it is about twice as long and very strong. Any compression device for it would need to be 500-600mm long minimum having a long and powerful compressing action, long enough to get the nuts on the end into the right position, which is with some thread of the pushrod sticking out beyond the locknut. It would also need a big bow to fit over the pulley/clutch end

The push rod can be adjusted as in Ian Bradleys book with a screwdriver in the slot at the end of the pushrod and the nut released, but this must only be considered as a fine adjustment aide. The push rod should never be rotated against its spring any more than can be helped as the action will create swarf inside the assembly by the ends of the spring rubbing on the countershaft shoulder (at the left end ) and the pushrod head (at the right end). It really is that compressed – it does have to prevent the clutch slipping remember. It follows that it is not on to get the pushrod just started (not that I can see anyone would manage it by hand anyway) and wind the rod in the rest of the way. If you try any adjustment before attempting disassembly, you will understand.

Sorry I cannot be more help. There really is no practical advice as it depends on your facilities. Not that it helps, but Myford replaced the bearings in minutes. It sounds to me like jwb may win with Eddy's method, but the clutch should not "run out of adjustment" unless there has been clutch slip wearing out the cone. If you have noise, then you have bearing trouble, but you may need other parts as well. Michael will need a total stripdown anyway as the bearings are sealed-for-life type and he has introduced all sorts of foreign bodies in his "cleanout" where he cannot get, round the spring and pushrod area, and his clutch action will never be smooth or noise free.

Good luck to you both, and to anyone tempted to release that pushrod without restraint. Such action would be very dangerous to skin and bone!.

Dennis

Any help in how to unfreeze the clutch plate please? I too am in the process of disassembling the Mk2 S7 clutch and cannot seem to progress with the clutch plate on account of not being able to move the pushrod. I have read the warnings in this thread about flying pushrods and would like to know why mine is not flying off yet as I have removed the countershaft from the lathe, with pushrod, spring, cone all connected, and the 1/4" hexagonal nut removed. I presume the push rod is actually held captive by the Driver Plate (the disc secured with 2 allan cap screws) which would mean that this driver plate is threaded – is this the case? Is this what DMR means by "the central nut on the end of the modern cone clutch"?  Turning the split end of the push rod results in no movement and just destruction of the split parts of the end! Attempts at turning the Driver Plate results in no movement either. Everything solid. Currently I have the shaft sitting vertically in the vice with the open cavity end uppermost and filled with WD40. Any advice on my next move move most keenly appreciated. Thank you.Adam

Edited By Adam Harris on 13/04/2014 21:49:46

Edited By Adam Harris on 13/04/2014 21:53:41

The thread. "stuck clutch" covers some tips to get out of this situation.

Mike

Adam

Re the spring. I used to believe that this was akin to a WMD until I took a clutch to pieces, and its not that bad.

You can take the "sting" out of the spring by replacing, one at a time, the two socket cap screws with longer ones with a nut on them, and then unscrewing the nuts to release the tension. The spring does still shoot out (unless you have really long screws!) but only a little way and is easily caught in a bundle of rags. I used the workshop towel.

For reassembly a clamp is easily contrived using ordinary clamps and a bit of scrap.

Easier to do than to describe, just think about it.