Thanks for the advice. Yes, I would have made substantial fitted discs as you describe.

I have had no success in searching on the internet for a suitable wheel of the required size and grade.

Another problem is that I don't know the overall width of these cup and disc wheels but I guess that on one side they are well off-set from their bore, so take up more space inside the end guard than do the plain wheels. The end guards of my tiddly 15-year-old cheapo KEF grinder are fairly close to the wheels.

I could soldier on with what I have been using quite successfully for the past 15 years, or perhaps I could buy a slightly larger grinder, together with a soft wheel to fit.

Have I got more money than sense, I ask myself.

The reason for turning to this now is that when I first began model engineering about 25 years ago I soon became a disciple of George Thomas, who wrote so well and clearly in 'Model Engineer' at the time.

I made most of his attachments but, because I was then buying basic tools, I could'nt afford the soft wheel that he described in his articles.

Thanks.

I am years out of date and have never used diamond tools. I am familiar with common straight abrasive wheels and their maintenance etc but I had better learn a bit more before spending a weeks wages (£10 without overtime) on diamond -bearing stuff. I can't find any explanations on the internet and nothing in my oldish books, so perhaps this is the place to ask for information.

Are 125mm diam. diamond wheels happy at 3000rpm?

Do They need regular clearing/cleaning when used with HSS lathe tools? Every few minutes?

Is the nomenclature the same ie does an 80-grade diamond wheel give the same result as an 80-grit abrasive wheel?

I think that a fine 100 grit wheel would tend to glaze and burn: does the same apply to diamong ones?

Thanks