Making a Tool Holder for CCMT 06 tips?

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Making a Tool Holder for CCMT 06 tips?

This topic has 23 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 5 August 2014 at 21:34 by Oompa Lumpa.

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17 January 2012 at 19:17 #82310
Peter Bell
Participant
@peterbell11509
Just changing a tip to do a different job and thought “wouldnt it be nice if I had more holders” and realised I dont have because of the cost.

In this age of cnc machining etc has anyone any hints or tips or advice on machining a Myford size holder for CCMT 06 tips—or I am just being mean and should go out and buy some!

Thanks Peter
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17 January 2012 at 19:17 #16761
Peter Bell
Participant
@peterbell11509
17 January 2012 at 19:24 #82312
David Clark 13
Participant
@davidclark13
Hi There

I have made them on CNC mills in the past.

As long as you have the geometry of the tip, you should be able to make them.

regards David
17 January 2012 at 20:07 #82313
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
I’ve done it a coupel of times to mount teh tips onto the ends of stout bars and used them when I wanted a rigid boring bar.

You just need to put a small clearance hole at the internal corner, mill the two faces with a small cutter and then drill the mounting hole. Easy enough on a manual machine though a DRO helps

J

Edited By JasonB on 17/01/2012 20:08:00
17 January 2012 at 22:12 #82320
John Haine
Participant
@johnhaine32865
As noted above, very easy to make. One tip for drilling the screw hole – after milling the seat, glue the tip in place with a dab of superglue to hold it while you spot through. A bit of heat to release the glue, then drill out and tap for the screw. This way you can get a very snug fit. Some articles have recommended chamfering the sides of the tool recess to match the tool – pointless. I have made a couple of turning tools and several boring bars up to 3/4 diameter. Mount with an MS block which attaches to the top of the topslide with a single nutin place of the normal toolholder, then drill thru from the headstock to get the bore exactly on centre height.
17 January 2012 at 23:02 #82322
Terry Lane
Participant
@terrylane
There’s some good info here
18 January 2012 at 01:24 #82324
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
I have 16 mm triangle tips without holes, use then in the face cutter in the mill. When they’v been used there, I resharpen , and use in the lathe. I made the holder by cutting a triangular seat in the end of a steel bar (from the junk box), beside the seat is a hole with a 3/16UNF thread, a little bridge is bolted to this, holding the insert. I’v got a few other tips that would normally be brazed to the holder, that are held in the same way. Ian S C
18 January 2012 at 08:59 #82330
Anonymous
Posted by John Haine on 17/01/2012 22:12:11:

…… Some articles have recommended chamfering the sides of the tool recess to match the tool – pointless.

Why is it pointless? – Andrew
18 January 2012 at 09:32 #82333
Douglas Johnston
Participant
@douglasjohnston98463
As has been said they are very easy to make, I have even made holders for screwcutting inserts although they are a bit more tricky with more complex angles.

A milling vice with angular base is very convenient to use along with quite a small milling cutter (2.5 to 3mm or even smaller for the tiny inserts)

When making the tapped hole I make a punch with a diameter about 5 thou less than the diameter of the hole in the insert, with a shallow point angle. The insert is then placed into the milled pocket in the holder and the punch (held vertically) forces the insert tightly into place while spotting the hole. This proceedure ensures that when the insert is screwed into the holder it is levered tightly into position with no chance of moving when cutting metal.

Doug.
18 January 2012 at 09:53 #82335
John Stevenson 1
Participant
@johnstevenson1
I have made the odd one in the past.

John S.
18 January 2012 at 10:29 #82340
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
John S, I could go out to the workshop and get a tool holder almost identical to one in your wee stack, another one has clamping at both ends, so that I have a left, and right tool on the one shank-two tools, half the steel. Ian S C ps., after 15 yrs they are a bit beat up.
18 January 2012 at 11:40 #82349
Ian P
Participant
@ianp
Slightly off topic but in the John Stevenson’s photograph I notice he has removed the knurling of the mating faces of the vice jaws. I’m envious!

I suppose the knurled surface is OK for rough work but the rest of the time one ends up with putting packing of some sort to prevent damage to the work. I frequently grip anodised aluminium sheet and very clean finely surface ground jaw faces do not generally need even a paper protective sheet, Most standard soft jaws get embedded with grit and swarf and in any event do not clamp tightly right at the edge.

When I left school and started as a sort of apprentice an engineer at the company who made prototypes got delivery of a new vice for his bench, the first thing he did was fully dismantle it and fettle it up so that it worked smoothly. I saw him grind the jaws and the memory of his attention to details has stuck with me.

Not having a surface grinder I have generally done mine on a belt linisher. It would be good if someone would offer an exchange postal service! Any takers?

Ian
18 January 2012 at 12:42 #82356
John Stevenson 1
Participant
@johnstevenson1
Ian,

If I need to do any rough work I have another vice or the original hardened serrated jaws.

I hate hard jaws and hardened packings, most of mine are just pieces of gauge plate cut and ground to size. if you make a mistake all you have is a dinged packing and not a blunt or broken tool.

These vise jaws are again just pieces of gauge plate that have been drilled and counterbored. When they get too bad on the top with file and hacksaw marks they just get a quick lick up.

John S.

PS the lathe tools are a commercial job, from this photo they go for professional hardening and blackodizing.

There is a set of three different ones that go out on rental on-site pipe facing machines. When the machines come back in the toolholders are always missing, usually just thrown away so it’s always an ongoing job.
18 January 2012 at 13:31 #82360
Ian P
Participant
@ianp
Posted by John Stevenson on 18/01/2012 12:42:27:

Ian,

If I need to do any rough work I have another vice or the original hardened serrated jaws.

I hate hard jaws and hardened packings, most of mine are just pieces of gauge plate cut and ground to size. if you make a mistake all you have is a dinged packing and not a blunt or broken tool.

John S.

PS the lathe tools are a commercial job, from this photo they go for professional hardening and blackodizing.

I know the tools are a commercial job, I bought one!

If I had a choice I would have the vice jaws are glass hard. That way, and used carefully, even if the file or hacksaw blade did make the occasional contact they would just skid and not even damage the teeth.

Ian
18 January 2012 at 17:45 #82385
David Littlewood
Participant
@davidlittlewood51847
Ian,

I am doubtful about your assertion that contact between file or sawblade and hardened steel would not blunt the former – it certainly goes against my experience.

David
18 January 2012 at 20:03 #82401
Ian P
Participant
@ianp
Posted by David Littlewood on 18/01/2012 17:45:32:

Ian,

I am doubtful about your assertion that contact between file or sawblade and hardened steel would not blunt the former – it certainly goes against my experience.

David

Yes, I accept what you say, I was referring to careful use of a saw/file. By coincidence on another post today ‘corner rounding’ buttons were mentioned. They are usually hardened and designed to be contacted by the file teeth. As long as no pressure is applied no damage is done to the teeth.

Ian
18 January 2012 at 20:34 #82405
Roderick Jenkins
Participant
@roderickjenkins93242
When I make filing buttons for rounding ends I let them rotate on the spindle through the hole. This way they do not need hardening but I can’t use a retaining nut on both ends since one of them will unscrew.

Rod
19 January 2012 at 07:20 #82431
Peter Bell
Participant
@peterbell11509
Thanks for all the helpful advice and the inspirational pic frrom John S.

Previously I have had to machine all my tool holders to get the centre height right (must have bought the wrong ones at various ME shows!) so making some would get over that problem.

Getting the retaining screw in the right place is something that had put me off so the ideas of getting that screw in the right place so that the tip is well clamped are very welcome

Peter
19 January 2012 at 20:27 #82475
Sub Mandrel
Participant
@submandrel
Hey John – That’s a lot of scrappers! >DUCKS<

A hard sharp point on a dead hard surface can skid as the friction is so low. Low friction =low wear.

Neil
4 August 2014 at 13:45 #159712
Gray62
Participant
@gray62
I've just acquired a box of ccmt 06 tips and am about to make some holders for them.

What is the best way to mount the tips? I've seen holders with them flat, negative rake and positive rake.

cheers

Graeme
4 August 2014 at 14:52 #159726
Neil Wyatt
Moderator
@neilwyatt
My CCMT holder has the tip perfectly horizontal, the angles are all provided by the geometry of the tip.

Neil
4 August 2014 at 15:10 #159729
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
Mine are all horizontal except the boring bars where the negative rake also gives a bit mor eclearance under the tip so it fits a smaller dia hole.

J
5 August 2014 at 11:23 #159793
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Mine are flat, but these tips that I use in the 50 mm face cutter on the vertical milling machine are slightly negative at the edge. Ian S C
5 August 2014 at 21:34 #159842
Oompa Lumpa
Participant
@oompalumpa34302
Spurred on by the recent posts about toolholders I decided to set to and start making some holders for the rather large quantity of carbide tips I have accumulated. I had decided some time back that I would use Silver Steel for my toolholders, that way I could harden and temper them if I thought that was needed but I would be using a good quality material if I didn't so the chance of failure would be minimised. Silver steel is not hard to machine, in fact it machines well and the finish shows a quality tool.

First up was this toolholder to hold these threading tips I had been given some time back. They are the perfect pitch for a good number of threads I cut, metric fine:

This is just one particular type from a good selection:

Some of the tips have a chipped edge but the boxes are all good tips so I will make those toolholders first, but there are some good tips in the trays – especially some of the grooving cutters:

This is my first attempt at the threading toolholder and it turned out well. I made the 3mm retaining screw from a cap screw as shown by one of the other forum members in another thread (Thanks for that):-

There is 2.5mm of meat under the tip so I am hoping that's going to be enough, I am comfortable with it – we will see how it will work out because the cut doesn't take off much material so it will be fine:

I hope this inspires others to do the same. It isn't hard and is a cheap way of getting more toolholders. I started off with a piece of 12mm silver steel, machined two flats opposite each other effectively making it 10mm top to bottom but leaving it 12mm across. I machined the flat for the carbide tip itself at 90 degrees to the two flats and this should make it easy to line up square for use.

graham.
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