Couple of things going on here:
- Mild-steel versus Cast-iron. In theory cast-iron is better for this application because it absorbs vibration, whereas steel 'rings'.
- There's a risk welding will deform a plate made by joining bits mild-steel together, especially if the welder is semi-skilled. Distortion is hard to correct if it happens.
In practice, I doubt the difference between dead cast-iron and ringing steel matters much on a Rotary Table.
Making the plate from a lump of metal big enough in the first place rather than welding avoids the risk and the cost of fixing it if it goes wrong. If welding goes well, Mike will save money. If it goes very badly, a waste of time and money. Mild distortion might not be difficult to fix, so another win. The method is unreliable.
Problem with a heat-warped precision item is how to fix it. A domestic oven isn't hot enough because relief soaking requires higher temperatures for several hours. Heating with a torch requires judgement. The warped item could be machined to shape, but it might move again due to stress relief. Certainly not impossible, but more unpredictable than I care for.
Have to confess I'm partly negative because I don't enjoy this type of problem solving and would rather buy my way out of trouble by paying for a suitable cast-iron or mild-steel disc. Others would relish the challenge and delight in the experience. I don't think there's a straightforward answer. It comes down to what Mike has to hand and his appetite for adventure. Be good to know how it works out, dazzling triumph, miserable failure, or 'good enough'!
Dave