Tried this and it really works.

I had to watch the video a few times to be sure I understood it. It uses some lateral thinking and the basic geometry of the machine, rather than fiddling about with squares and "round parallels", and it seems to save a lot of time as well as giving a more accurate result.

Definately worth watching if you mill and have to square up blocks before doing anything more interesting.

Rod

Did those trying it have fully sawn or irregular block or like in the video have the two extruded parallel sides to a decent first grip of the work?

I would have thought that if the block does not have two close to parallel sides to grip initially then you may not get a secure grip without a packer on the moving jaw, with the climb cuts shown a poorly griped workpiece could come loose.

There would also be a limit to size as the longer the cutter needed to reach down the sides the more prone it is to deflection, though if cleaning up all sides completely with the second pass there is no reason to make the initial cuts so deep as you just want enough to rest on a parallel.

As usual Joe Pie has done a cracking video. Obviously cannot be used every time but a very useful tip!

Tony

Jason, agreed, but even a rough block can be improved. Viz – grip the block deep in the vice using packers if needed. Take a small step out of one edge. Invert block and grip again, deep in the vice, resting the step on a narrow parallel. Take a second step on the edge above the first step. These 2 steps must be parallel and can be used to grip the block shallow in the vice for the first stage of the squaring up process. Seems to work Ok.

I agree about the limit on size. I found that I had to use a conventional end mill ,whereas I usually use a face cutter with inserts for facing, but it's no use for this method.

Rod