Time saver state any residue left will not be detrimental, I have used it for lapping steel liners but not with cast iron, I found it a very good product for the job, I have yellow and green grades.

Emgee

Hi, perfect timing for this question. I was going to post the exact same thing!

I am currently building a Quorn and having bored out the LH and RH casting, the front bar calls for a "sliding fit" between these cast iron holes and the front steel bars. I did some research and it does seem that "Timesaver" seemed to be the right stuff.

I need to take off the last thou (ish) to get this desired fit.

It looks expensive though but I am told little goes a long way. It does seem that the compound does break down completely. Do not under any circumstances use emery or grinding paste as this will embed into the cast iron and the cast iron bore now becomes an external lap!

I also considered one of those 3 legged brake cylinder hone.

Going to try and use medium and fine as suggested. My local stockist has it in kits – comes in 4 grade, coarse medium, fine and extra fine.

Regards

Derek

There is/was a small 'sample or trial' kit of eight little tubs (2" dia. x 2" high) that I bought a few years ago.

Norm

My experience is much depends on the start point. If there are deep scratches then it's quicker to start coarse and step methodically down through all the grades. Conversely, when the lathe delivers a good surface from the get go, it's not smart to make extra work by spoiling it with a coarse grit!

The goal is to never use a fine grit to remove a significant amount of metal. As it takes forever, fine grades are best kept for finishing only.

Dave

Are you slitting your Quorn bores or installing split cotters?

If I were doing it again I would definitely do the latter.