True dowel pins are through hardened. Yo will not be able st screw something into it.

Can you drill through the other side of the part so you can get a punch on the pin? If that is not possible set it up on the mill and cut out the pin with a carbide end mil.

Some pics of what you are working on sure would help.

Have you tried heating the "bar" with a propane torch to expand it and then bang it on the bench to shake the dowel out?

You should have a try at drilling the dowel pin. It may not be a through-hardened pin. It may be soft enough to drill and tap to extract. Some pins are case hardened, so you might be able to Dremel the hard case off the end and then drill it. Other pins are just plain mild steel that could be drilled easily. Only one way to find out which you have…

Looks like part No12 on page 38 of the manual so no way of drilling and punching

Hi Phil try pushing some plastercine or similar material down the hole you have drilled behind the dowel then take a punch as near to size of the hole and give it a good thump. The hydraulic pressure should push out the dowel, top up the plastercine as necessary.

David

Aha. So the dowel is in the end of the long thin bar. Much clearer now.

I think I'd be trying grinding the end off the dowel with a Dremel and trying to drill it out once through the hard skin. Most dowel pins are case hardened, not through hardened, so they retain the strength of the core steel under impact etc. We used to grind the ends off hardened dowels and drill and tap them for later extraction when using them to hold together press tooling, so it can be done if the pin is not through-hardened.

Find someone who can TIG weld a washer edge on to the dowel and pull the washer to remove the dowel.

Martin C

Or cut your blessings?

It is not a support bar, just a leadscrew guard of no value to the operation of the machine. Just cut it off and use it to make something else. Replace with a new piece of mild steel that will cost you less than the special drill.

Part 12 would seem to fit the given dimensions of 10mm x 20mm x 50cm, note my bold.

Parts 27 on that page and the one before would be the 3 dowel pins that go into the ends of part12

Edited By JasonB on 28/01/2019 19:35:54

Or just look at page 11 of the manual, whether the carrage actually rests on the bar or not I would not like to say but that is part 12. The paint doe snot seem to wear on used ones so maybe it just passes through that slot at the front of the carrage.

Edited By JasonB on 28/01/2019 19:51:20

I have a Hobbymat. The bar is non-essential and non-structural.

It is a strange design really being an overgrown watchmakers bar bed lathe. In practice although the bed forms the guide some of the cutting force is taken by the hefty leadscrew which is far thicker than on normal minilathes. I often think it would be nice to rebuild it with only the tailstock on the original bed and a new saddle on say two ground bars.

Maybe the bar is there to help take the longitudinal reaction force of the leadscrew ?