Precise angles with the lathe compound

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Precise angles with the lathe compound

Home Forums Workshop Techniques Precise angles with the lathe compound

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  • #15921
    Willliam Powell
    Participant
      @willliampowell36769
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      #288339
      Willliam Powell
      Participant
        @willliampowell36769

        I'm sure the photos will not be in the proper order.16195189_10207823110443534_5638245230362332824_n.jpg

        Dial in a parallel. I have a box cross slide with a pair of holes in it to mount a small platen. I just clamp a parallel on it.

        16265901_10207823110403533_3334929384816575214_n.jpg

        Set up the sine bar.

        16142484_10207823110483535_1185658639445965543_n.jpg

        Dial in the compound.

        16996192_10208121407860783_5077897862064824879_n.jpg

        #288343
        Chris Evans 6
        Participant
          @chrisevans6

          Bit easier for me, my top/compound slide is ground all over (and again by me to ensure it is right) I just put the sine bar/slips or a ground angle wedge to the edge of slide and clock up. Nice way you achieve the same result.

          #288411
          BW
          Participant
            @bw

            Thanks thats helpful to me.

            Bill

            #288454
            richardandtracy
            Participant
              @richardandtracy

              Silly question:

              Apart from Morse Tapers, what needs that level of precision? In my 30 odd year career as a designer I've never found anything where I've not been able to redesign it so +/-1 degree isn't adequate. I've often felt some vague sense I'm missing a whole heap of precision as a result, and should extend my range of experience. Hence my enquiry.

              Regards

              Richard.

              #288462
              IanT
              Participant
                @iant

                The accuracy is about achieving repeatability Richard, plus of course the ability to set a well defined angle without possessing an existing tool (with that particular taper to copy).

                For a 'one-off' taper (e.g. a matching male/female pair) – just about any taper angle could be set, provided everything is done at the same setting. If you have a existing (say MT2 taper) to match, then you can just set it between centres and clock true from it – but if you need to machine to a 'defined' taper standard from scratch – then this is a very good way to go.

                Regards,

                IanT

                #288464
                Willliam Powell
                Participant
                  @willliampowell36769
                  Posted by richardandtracy on 12/03/2017 15:30:46:

                  Silly question:

                  Apart from Morse Tapers, what needs that level of precision? In my 30 odd year career as a designer I've never found anything where I've not been able to redesign it so +/-1 degree isn't adequate. I've often felt some vague sense I'm missing a whole heap of precision as a result, and should extend my range of experience. Hence my enquiry.

                  Regards

                  Richard.

                  My current project is a D1-3 spindle upgrade. The register taper is 7degrees 7&1/2 minutes. It's a pretty sticky dimension, right down to checking it with spotting ink and stoning it to round. (My lathe bearings are tapers in class 3, and only get me to about 0.0005" egged).

                  Another upcoming is as you note, a Morse taper. This one is an accessory that cuts square holes. It mounts in the tailstock. I'll need it for making the cams for my chuck mounting spud.

                  In the future I will have to make some special B&S taper centers for my dividing head.

                  In the past I used to service the hob spindle bearings on G&E gear hobbers fairly often. Usually the owner ran them without keeping them in order, so the bronze taper was thrashed. It's easier to set up the compound to spec than to set up the spindle and dial in off of it.

                  All of this assumes that the headstock is in alignment with the lathe bed of course.

                  #288468
                  Chris Evans 6
                  Participant
                    @chrisevans6

                    Lots of shaft to pulley/sprocket applications where an accurate taper is required.

                    #288475
                    John Hinkley
                    Participant
                      @johnhinkley26699

                      This thread has cheered me up no end. It seems that I'm not the only sledgehammer-wielding nutcracker, after all!

                      MEW 246 page 9 et seq……

                      John

                      #288478
                      Steve Withnell
                      Participant
                        @stevewithnell34426
                        Posted by richardandtracy on 12/03/2017 15:30:46:

                        Silly question:

                        Apart from Morse Tapers, what needs that level of precision? In my 30 odd year career as a designer I've never found anything where I've not been able to redesign it so +/-1 degree isn't adequate. I've often felt some vague sense I'm missing a whole heap of precision as a result, and should extend my range of experience. Hence my enquiry.

                        Regards

                        Richard.

                        I used a similar process to turn the blanks for some parallel depth gears. I'm not experienced enough to know if it was necessary to set up the blanks to 60 / 30 degrees exactly (well as best as I could) or if 60 +/- 1 deg would have done.

                        Steve

                        #288482
                        richardandtracy
                        Participant
                          @richardandtracy

                          Thanks.

                          As Bill Osborne might have said, my stock of ignorance is fractionally reduced.

                          Regards

                          Richard

                          #288494
                          Jon Gibbs
                          Participant
                            @jongibbs59756

                            I can't help thinking that HH's method based upon the tangent (sorry – sine in this case) of the angle and a test bar is much easier…

                            **LINK**

                            …and maybe even less prone to error.

                            What am I missing?

                            Jon

                            Edited By Jon Gibbs on 12/03/2017 18:11:24

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