Hello Clive,

It depends… if these are decorative parts, use soft solder with a suitable flux, if they are 'working bits' use a silver solder. Brass tends not to distort much because it conducts heat very well and heats evenly.

Neil

For soft soldering I tin the required areas with solder paste. The paste is painted onto the required areas, gently heated with a blowlamp and wiped off with a damp cloth leaving tinned surfaces and a clean job.

– Nick

Hi Guys First time poster long time lurker. Not sure that I am posting this in the correct area so bare with me. If it needs transferring to a more appropriate place in the forum feel free to move it along.

I am from Brisbane Australia and I am trying to help a good friend to get his 7.25" Bagnall with Bagnall-Price valve gear running. It has been built using M.J.Eng drawings and used the build series from the Engineering in Miniature magazine.

Unfortunately we are having all sorts of problems getting the timing right. It will run on air & steam in forward gear but not in reverse it just locks up.My friend is not tech savvy so it fallen to me to help him find a solution. I have used Docksteader's Mark 1 “Bagnall-Price Outside Admission valve gear and the modified Mark 2 dimensional changes noted on the M.J.Engineering web site. Neither have been successful.

In order to prove Docksteader configuration I have used AutoCad to plot in 5 degree increments the changes of the valve motion before and after maximum forward and reverse gear at 0 deg and 180 deg. I can make it work in Forward gear but not in Reverse and similar problems occur when favouring the Revese gear (which occurs under air and steam). I just hope that someone has built the 7.25” Bagnall with Bagnall-Price valve gear and had it run successfully I would dearly love to get in touch and find out the actual dimensions, angles, settings etc.

Please spread the word. Thanks in anticipation.

Kind Regards…….Nuzbraggs