I would insulate the outside with cladding over the top of the insulation.

Batten the wall with battens the same thickness as the insulation, Celotex/Kingspan, then a breathable membrane, another batten min 25mm to allow an air gap with the cladding fixed to this batten. Could also be done on the inside but you'd lose some space and by doing it on the external face you will reduce the rain/water penetration which you get on single skin. Roof space should be reasonably easy to insulate from the inside dependant on roof structure.

As with all things cost may be a consideration.

Bob

When I was in the UK I kept a cloth cover on the lathe with a 60 W bulb in the cabinet stand. That stopped the condensation and kept the fingers from freezing.

Russell

How long do you think you will live? Good insulation is the key but not if you only have a couple of years left.

Draughtproof 100%, as in use foam spray in anything that looks like a gap around the ceiling and properly seal the doors, but provide ventillation for when you are in there . Then use a dehumidifier instead of a radiator as it will recover heat from damp air not just the electricity you use. When in there use a fan heater to heat up the air and your feet quickly and a radiant heater on a stand to aim at your hands and whatever your hands are touching. Convectors and oiled filled radiators are the worst as they just heat the ceiling. You may be able to rig some shower curtains to subdivide the space which will make a big difference to temporary heating like this.

Having a nice cosy workshop may help prolong ones life

Bob

Hi,

I too have a single brick garage with a felt roof and yes it has been very cold recently.

Many years ago, I used to spray my machine's bright parts with WD40: this worked in keeping the dreaded rust at bay, but was terribly smelly.

At some point, and now I don't know how, I came across some self-regulating heaters from RS Components, part no 360-4059 although they now seem to call them Enclosure Heaters. I mounted two on the lathe – no more corrosion and even in the depths of winter the lathe no longer has that bone chilling heat absorbing coldness about it. I've also fitted one to my milling machine although I'm not too sure about the efficiency of the heat transfer method I used. Both machines are kept covered by a cloth and a piece of plastic when not in use so these also help to hold the heat in.

The downside is that although nominally 10W, I have found that they are quite correctly working at nearer 19W hence for the lathe there is a constant 38W electric drain.

As far as I go, I use a fan heater, and a convector heater to at least get the air temperature somewhere reasonable. Plus the obligatory woolly hat, scarf, and ever so old padded coat.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

Move to SE Asia. My problem is not condensation or cold hands, but sweat… Finish any job, any project, everything gets wiped down with oily kitchen roll inc machine tools. Or else whatever i have touched is rusty in the morning. Is the main reason ANYTHING i make in steel has a hot oil blackened finish.

Phil, I have a little spreadsheet for calculating heating. If you put 2 inch all round you will require about 300W when its freezing outside, once up to temperature. With ceiling only you are looking at more like 800W but it is more difficult to get solid bare walls to temperature so you will tend to feel colder.