Unless you are replacing the bearing it is difficult to remove with out damage, when replacing I normally grind it putting a flat on it till it is almost through and then split it with a cold chisel.

Bob

Hi Ian,

The rollers and their guide should just lift off, leaving behind the inner race. Are they just 'struck' in place with old grease?

The inner race will take a bearing puller (bought or improvised, but you shouldn't need to remove it for cleaning.

Neil

.

Really

MichaelG.

Whats that you said, 'Open mouth, engage brain' or 'Engage brain and then open mouth' Just having fun.

Clive

Hi All I might be talking out of my butt but looking at that bearing it looks to be arse about face. When I serviced tractors the tapered part went on first and the roller part was put on last with a nut and cotter pin to secure.

Just my thoughts Keith.

Ian. You are quite right in your assessment of the radial needle bearings involving sliding and slip. ALL bearings have this problem. The bearings you mention are only used in very low stress areas and tend to be of a small size typically they are found on the end of feed screws etc. This problem has existed since the first bearings were developed and the manufacturers have spent millions on designing and building bearings to try to mitigate it. One approach involves tapering the rollers, another is to use barrel shaped rollers with corresponding radii in the tracks. In ball bearings they use different contact angles or again radiused inner and outer tracks. The solutions and types of bearings vary according to the use the bearing is intended for. Thus the special types used in lathe mandrels (see other thread)

A look into any catalogue from a bearing manufacturer will show the differing types available. However all bearing will suffer to some extent the sliding and slip referred to. This is the reason for the finish imparted to the balls/ rollers housings etc. it also explains the use of plastic brass and metal cages. All carefully matched and machined to tight tolerance . This leads to the obvious need for lubrication and the reasons for oil or grease, again dependent on loading /duty. It must be the correct type, viscosity and quantity if you want the best from the bearing.

If foreign matter gets in or the lubrication is incorrect metal to metal contact will take place and the bearing will wear. The wear will accelerate exponentially until the bearing ultimately fails completely and seizes. Normally before complete failure the noise becomes more noticeable and if you are sensible you will investigate and replace the bearing .

Hope this helps Max.

Hi Ian, you mean like this;

This is the most common arrangement for pre-loaded taper roller bearings to eliminate any backlash. the idea is that it retains a constant bearing load throughout a wide temperature range. All bearings rise in temperature during use and expand, this arrangement will have the heat generated in the bearing transferred into the spindle and as this expands, the inner race moves away from the outer race and the corresponding expansion of the rollers fills up the gap keeping the load fairly constant. meanwhile the heat generated dissipates to atmosphere through the spindle and the bearing housing. All a matter of good and careful design.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 13/12/2014 20:55:04

For a great summary of taper bearing arrangements for machine tools, courtesy of British Timken see the ME reprint HERE

Neil

Hi All

Slightly off topic but I used to be the UK agent for an American rotary trim cutter this device was used for cutting tough continuous trims leaving a process before entering an air conveying system. The rotor ran on two 1" Timken tapered roller bearings it was a common problem on rebuild to have to wash out bits of plastic from the bearings I used the method as Breva stated it worked excellently but you will be surprised what comes out and how long it takes. Incidentally the bearings were super high tolerance used to cut trims down to 12 micron. I was told that the bearing were "Bastards" taken off standard production line then measured and depending upon the run out either a one or two dot burn mark put on the inner and outer cup. I had to import them from the US and cost either £250 or £400 plus per bearing depending upon the tolerance.

Peter

Lidl Aldi etc sell a sonic bath cleaner for 20 quid btw. May be worth looking out for one

Edited By Ady1 on 14/12/2014 12:01:27

I used to work for a bearing manufacturer before I retired as a chief inspector. Looking at the picture of that bearing reminds me of the larger sizes we used to make, and the all steel cages were pressed on with the rollers resting in the inner cone. The only way to get them off was to cut them off and re-cage the rollers with a new cage. We used to do this as a bearing repair job for about half the price of a new one. New rollers were fitted, after the races had been reground.

Just this moment received a reply from the manufacturer. Sent my email at 6:35; received the reply at 6:44. How about that for service. The product is called Krazy Grease. They have told me to use Windex or ammonia to remove the grease.

Bill