I second Ian's opinion about doing parts like this while still on the end of the bar, with the last op being to part it off,complete.

However there are a couple of things you can do now.

If the 7BA thread is tapped already, you could make a 3/16 dia mandrel with a stub of 7 BA thread on it, Thread that into the part and hold the whole thing in a 4 jaw chuck or a vise, gripping both the mandrel and a bit of the unslotted square, while you cut the slot and file it or mill it.

Or you could make a brass rod end with a hole a thou or two larger than the 11/64 stub and soft solder the part into it temporarily to make a bigger handle to grip the part in a vise for cutting or milling the slot. The slot can then machined. and the solder melted to separate the finished part from the rod, and excess solder wiped away.

Good luck, JD

One of the advantages of reading ME articles on eg Loco construction that some on here moan is so boring and blah blah they won't subscribe any more, yes the advantage is you pick up ideas for this kind of thing and store it away in your brain for use ten years down the line.

Hello Gary,

I don't think you have much to lose by glueing it into a hole in perspex or tufnol, whatever you have, using a modern foaming polyurethane adhesive and leaving it over gentle heat overnight. It will give you a handle to grip and it works very well holding short ends on wooden handles for sawing in a bandsaw.

I recommend Everbuild Gater glue. If you are canny you can preshape the 'handle' to give you support underneath it to help resist slitting saw forces. Take it gently though.

It will clean up nicely afterwards too, just run the tap through to restore the 7BA hole.

Good luck

Brian

Gary,

A slightly more sophisticated version of my earlier (clamping) suggestion would be to drill and tap two square bars and make a very small toolmakers clamp – assuming you don't already have a small one. Just make sure the clamp will lie flat by drilling the clamping holes in line.

A spot of superglue on the jaw tips will help stop the work from twisting and the small clamp (if held correctly) would be re-usable in that you could saw between the jaws without damage to them. Extra time to make but it might "come in handy" again sometime.

However, if you don't mind soldering the piece – I thought Jeff's suggestion was a good/quick one.

Regards,

IanT.

"One of the advantages of reading ME articles on eg Loco construction that some on here moan is so boring and blah blah they won't subscribe any more, yes the advantage is you pick up ideas for this kind of thing and store it away in your brain for use ten years down the line."

What would be even better would be if the article was about solving this problem and the loco bit was left out entirely.Far more chance of remembering the technique then.

Edited By Carl Wilson 4 on 01/02/2014 21:04:18

hi gary,

i agree with IanT, but always pretty useless to be 'wise' after the event. Cherry Hinds/Hill made all her intricate bits by machining the bits on material then cutting off afterwards – a lesson well learned for your future parts!

yep junior hacksaw and file job in my book! probably just a few minutes work so good luck!

cheers,

julian

.

Sorry, Carl … A wasted attempt at sarcasm on my part.

I thought that was what the stupid winky smiley thing was meant to denote.

MichaelG.