brass coloured soft solder

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brass coloured soft solder

This topic has 14 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 8 October 2013 at 12:42 by John Hinkley.

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6 October 2013 at 16:18 #15665
michael howarth 1
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@michaelhowarth1
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6 October 2013 at 16:18 #131835
michael howarth 1
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@michaelhowarth1
My wife has seen a brass loco and has asked that the next one that I build (a predominantly brass kit), be left in the metallic state. My soft soldering skills are not much to speak of so the the daft question is, is there a soft solder / filler that is brass coloured? No wish to be negative but I am predicting cock ups.

Mick
6 October 2013 at 20:18 #131867
jason udall
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@jasonudall57142
Don’t know for any soft (low melting point) solder in brass like effect…you might be best off with brass metal loaded epoxy.
Or soft solder and thin layer of same or paint
6 October 2013 at 20:44 #131870
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
One of the Carr's soft solders is a bit more brassy coloured but it is in the higher temp range for soft solders, Have a look on Chronos as they keep the range.
6 October 2013 at 21:20 #131875
michael howarth 1
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@michaelhowarth1
Thanks Jasons ……..brass loaded epoxy sounds like a possibility, but thinking aloud, what do you think about solder melted then loaded with very fine fluxed brass dust? Will it remelt and bond with clean brass? Only one way to find out I suppose.

l I will give Carr's and CuP a ring tomorrow to see whether there is an off the shelf product.
6 October 2013 at 22:06 #131879
jason udall
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@jasonudall57142
What about gold luster powder .used in jewellery to colour wax prototypes
7 October 2013 at 07:15 #131894
michael howarth 1
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@michaelhowarth1
Yes, I know the stuff and I think that my wife may have some tucked away somewhere. I shall try and do a few experiments today and report back.
7 October 2013 at 22:16 #131985
JohnF
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@johnf59703
Mick, presume you are worried about "overflow" of solder ? Consider using tin as your solder, flows thinner and makes a finer joint. Easily obtained at plumbers merchants [lead free solder] Also use scrapers to remove any excess in tight corners, I use old hacksaw blades to make these.

Another possibility but I have never used it is to use Tipex where you don't want the solder to flow — saw this idea somewhere relating to silver soldering and it does work for this but I've never used it or dad the need to with soft solder.

Just my thoughts, John.
8 October 2013 at 06:22 #131999
WALLACE
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@wallace
Or how about a very gentle sand blasting ? I’ve done this on a brass soldered union to remove the ‘overspill’

It left a matt finish – so will need a polish afterwards.

A bit of experimentation will be needed to get the right pressure and medium plus a suitable ventilation system to avoid the hazzards of breathing in fine lead dust !

W.
I
8 October 2013 at 07:31 #132001
michael howarth 1
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@michaelhowarth1
All good stuff gents, keep it coming. Brass coloured solder is not available commercially. Experimenting with brass powders in the solder is also a no no. The solder does absorb the brass but not in sufficient quantity to change the colour before the solder loses its solder- like properties. Brass powder in epoxy resin looks good and visually is difficult to differentiate from a blob of molten brass with a nice shine on it. However I have a sneaking feeling that it may not burnish up again after rubbing down.

Meanwhile I have ordered some solder paste from CuP and I understand that this gives good neat results (if used properly). I have also read of using solder paste in resistance soldering, also said to be a neat way of doing things……something else to learn and equipment to obtain though.

Mick
8 October 2013 at 07:47 #132002
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
The powders will buff up, I've used them to fill voids when wood turning and they come up fine, this is the aluminium powder.

As for not being able to get a brass coloured soft solder, this looks a lot more brass than silver
8 October 2013 at 08:26 #132005
Michael Gilligan
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@michaelgilligan61133
Posted by mick H on 08/10/2013 07:31:49:

I have also read of using solder paste in resistance soldering, also said to be a neat way of doing things……something else to learn and equipment to obtain though.

Mick

.

Mick,

I am sure that Resistance Soldering would be the way to go.

Have a look here, and follow the links to American Beauty.

Some of their handpieces do have a curiously "Home Made" look to them; but they have an excellent reputation, and the website is very well illustrated … [you might choose to interpret that as a hint].

MichaelG.

.

Edit: Tweezer style handpiece, illustrated here.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 08/10/2013 08:30:44
8 October 2013 at 11:13 #132018
Steve Withnell
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@stevewithnell34426
Pure guess – have you tried brushing the soldered joint with a soft brass wire brush? I've noticed that brushing copper with a brass brush does make the copper brass coloured, maybe the same happens with a lead free solder?

Steve
8 October 2013 at 11:34 #132019
michael howarth 1
Participant
@michaelhowarth1
Thanks gents. I haven't actually started the new loco yet but given my previous amateurish attempts at soft soldering and taking into account the cost of the loco kit, I am trying to build up enough strategies to deal with the inevitable cockups and the intervention of Sod' Law once I do get going on it. If the finished article were to be painted any foulups could probably be adequately disguised. I have made a notes of all suggestions so far as they all seem to have potential. I am still looking for Carrs contact number. Any more ideas more than welcome. eg Best Buy UK resistance soldering.

Mick

PS the loco is a spirit fired live steamer by the way.

Edited By mick H on 08/10/2013 11:35:18
8 October 2013 at 12:42 #132028
John Hinkley
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@johnhinkley26699
At the risk of being shot down in flames (again), I offer the following, purely as an observation.

When we retired here to France, we had central heating installed by a local artisan. NONE of the joints were soldered – all were brazed, most being formed by swaging one pipe onto the adjoining one, then brazing with an oxy-acetylene kit. Never had a leak. I don't know what you are going to join – I assume it's the boiler, etc, nor do I know the thickness of the materials, but maybe you could consider this method. I stumbled upon a company called Harris, in the States, who specialise in solder and brazing materials. They do an interesting document on their website which details techniques and products, some of which are brass coloured. Their web address is:

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com

There is another product, also brass coloured, called Filler Pro – Google it – again from the USA used in cycle frame construction. You'll need a mortgage to get some, judging by the prices on the web site, though!

(Climbs back into box to dodge the flak)

John
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