Tee ring rivets

Advert

New Replies

Report Bug

Help/FAQs

Tee ring rivets

This topic has 5 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 7 September 2010 at 19:30 by David Costello.

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)

Author

Posts
7 September 2010 at 18:02 #55256
David Costello
Participant
@davidcostello75947
Is there any special tool that closes the rivets on wheel spokes,or do you just bash them with a punch or something.Thanks for any advice.

Dave.
Advert

7 September 2010 at 18:02 #15480
David Costello
Participant
@davidcostello75947
7 September 2010 at 18:46 #55257
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
The front ones can be done with a pair of standard snaps, for the rears you will have to make up a substantial holder for a small snap that will clear the second tee for the underside and a standard snap on top.

Though depending on the engine you may have to modify a standard snap so it clears the strake rivits and radius at the root of the tee, this picture shows where I have turned the supplied tapered end parallel and ground out one side of the snap, the small snap in the front is what I put in the holder.

If you are working on 4″ and above you may want to make a jig to hold the snap true, close the rivit with a 20T press or use a SDS+ type drill with modified chisel

Jason

Edited By JasonB on 07/09/2010 18:48:14
7 September 2010 at 18:55 #55258
David Costello
Participant
@davidcostello75947
Thanks Jason,

The wheels in question are 10″ dia for a balance plough model,with no strakes.Not clear what a snap is though,sorry if i appear a bit thick but this is a new venture into modelling.Thank you.

Dave.
7 September 2010 at 19:12 #55259
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
You wil need two snaps, these are like a punch as you can see in my pic above but they have a hemispherical recess that the preformed head of a rivit sits in.

You put one snap in your vice, slip a rivit through your tee ring and spoke and then place it all onto the snap, a few blocks of wood to hold the wheel level helps. Next you “set the rivit” this is done with a homemade hollow punch that slips over the rivit shank and is then hit to make sure the two bits of metal are firmly together and the rivit tight upto the underside. The snaps that RDG sell also have the hollow hole but most are just like punches

Now the tricky bit you place the second snap onto the protruding end of the rivit and give it a few sharp blows, this will form a matching snap head as the rivit is formed into shape. In reality you will want to do quite a few practice rivits before you get an acceptable head and to determine how much rivit to have protruding (about 1.6 times dia) to get a good head.

If its going to be painted then you will find copper rivits fine for a 2″ balance plough as they are a lot easier to form than steel.

Jason
7 September 2010 at 19:30 #55261
David Costello
Participant
@davidcostello75947
Thanks Jason

Yes,i think ive got the drift now,practice makes perfect,i shall order the copper ones.

Thanks again

Dave.
Author

Posts