Drill Chuck, Dismantle

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Drill Chuck, Dismantle

This topic has 19 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 16 February 2010 at 18:34 by Peter Tucker.

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29 December 2009 at 11:27 #46732
Peter Gain
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@petergain89847
Does anyone know how to dismantle a Chinese 13mm drill chuck? The chuck is a Jacobs copy. It has some detritus left internally which is now causing it to lock. I seem to recall details of dismantling described in ME(?) or ? but cannot now locate this info.

All suggestions will be welcome.

Peter Gain.
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29 December 2009 at 11:27 #15451
Peter Gain
Participant
@petergain89847
29 December 2009 at 12:20 #46734
Jim Whetren
Participant
@jimwhetren72358
Hello Peter,

First of all; I do not have knowledge of a Chinese copy chuck, but I would like to issue a small warning – Have a good look at it before committing yourself!

I have successfully stripped and cleaned both Jacobs & Rohm chucks, but this is where I cought a cold.

To strip a Jacobs chuck, first line up the tips of the jaws with the end face of the chuck, then find a piece of tube which fits over the rear of the body and abuts the back of the closing ring, it should be long enough to allow the ring to be to be pushed off the FRONT of the chuck. I used a stack of bearing outer races.

With the sleeving of choice in place and a piece of material at the front to protect the face,put the assembly in a vice and press the sleeve off the front of the chuck. Wait for a loud bang as the sleeve is pushed off the split closing nut.

Seperate the nut and remove, but examine the jaws before removal as they are usually marked for position, The teeth end in different places and there are marks in the slots into which each fits.

If this is not so or it all goes wrong, fit the jaws aligned with the end as before and try to fit the nut. If one jaw is sticking out, swap them around until the tips are level and move in and out evenly as you turn the nut with your fingers.

When all is well, use the spacer/s and a piece of material to protect the back and press the sleeve back on. When apart you can see that with the jaws so aligned, the inner ends will clear the sleeve.

Now for the rub, The Rohm chuck has a split nut but it also incorporates the sleeves gear teeth. This means that the sleeve has to be pressed off the gear teeth towards the BACK of the chuck. The Nut/teeth unit is pulled apart and the other instructions apply.

With close examination it should be possible to decide which way to press. Don’t do what I did and keep pressing until something gives. I killed the closing sleeve and had to make a new one!

I hope this is of some use to you.

Regards
Jim
29 December 2009 at 12:44 #46736
c
Participant
@c
ME Volume 188 page 352 (17 May 2002), v 155 p 634 (6 December 1985)
29 December 2009 at 13:49 #46739
Jeff Dayman
Participant
@jeffdayman43397
Before dismantling it, I would try soaking it for a few days in white spirit, then gently working the action, then soak, etc. to see if you can get the debris out that way. I have several old chucks that this treatment freed up. After freeing up another soak in light oil gets everything lubed.

Hope it helps.

Jeff
29 December 2009 at 14:01 #46740
Circlip
Participant
@circlip
Try this site guys, straight from the orses maarf :-

http://www.jacobschuck.com/support.asp

Regards Ian.

PS. It applys to Rohm chucks too.
30 December 2009 at 10:38 #46775
Peter Gain
Participant
@petergain89847
Hi,

Thanks to all who replied.

Following your advice I have been able to dismantle the chuck very easily. This is a good example of how an apparently impossible job becomes very easy when one has received the correct instructions!

The internal debris that was causing the chuck to lock was small pieces of the threaded control ring that had broken off from the top part of the thread. This should not have occurred as I never use excessive force such as extension levers or tubes. I only ever use the correct key. The ring appears to have been hardened, presumably over done. The long term answer is to stump up the extra cash & buy EU/USA products. “You get what you pay for” comes to mind. But in fairness, Far Eastern is better than nothing.

Peter Gain.
16 January 2010 at 19:21 #47461
Mark Smith 3
Participant
@marksmith3
I have a Hawkins drill press you probably won’t have heard of as it was made in Christchurch NZ many years ago. My problem is that the chuck needs servicing as it is stiff to operate and doesn’t hold the drills securely. It also won’t hold drills below 1/8′. I think it is a screw on chuck as there is no slot in the quill and a shaft runs through the pulleys with a long keyway. How do I get it out without breaking something. Once out I should be able to strip it after reading the previous posts.

Mark
16 January 2010 at 23:25 #47470
chris stephens
Participant
@chrisstephens63393
Hi Mark,

Some drills have the chuck fitted straight onto the drive shaft without a Morse taper in between. Although your chuck may be screwed on, it is more likely to be fitted to a male taper on the end of the driving shaft. The usual way to remove the chuck would be to use a pair of Jacobs type U shaped wedges. You might be able to see if it is a taper by close examination of the top of the chuck area.

I must warn you that I do not know your particular drill, but I do have one that has the chuck fitted as described.

chriStephens
17 January 2010 at 03:02 #47474
Mark Smith 3
Participant
@marksmith3
Thanks, Chris, I took the bull by the horns and went to the jacobs web site it said to chuck a large allen key in the chuck and whack it. Well it worked. The chuck unscrewed after several whacks. It dismantles easily with a slipring at the back of the chuck. I have stripped and oiled it; it works better now.

Mark
17 January 2010 at 05:33 #47475
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Hi Mark,If all else fails hit it hard with a big hammer.What size thread,is it 3/8″ UNF like a Black & Dekker drill.Ian S C
17 January 2010 at 06:27 #47476
Mark Smith 3
Participant
@marksmith3
No,Ian much bigger about 18mm dia. anyway problem solved.
17 January 2010 at 14:04 #47485
chris stephens
Participant
@chrisstephens63393
Hi Mark,

Thanks for the thanks, but I got it wrong. Glad you got it fixed, good old Jacobs to the rescue!

ChriStephens
12 February 2010 at 19:01 #48595
Geoffrey Morgan 1
Participant
@geoffreymorgan1
Please excuse my lack of proper English, but can someone give me the American equivalent of white spirits. I am assuming that it is the same as our mineral spirits or Stoddard solvent, which are petroleum based solvents used in regular enamel paints, shoe polish, etc. Stoddard solvent is a blend of light petroleum distillates developed early in the 20th century by a pharmacist. At least I know the relationship between paraffin and kerosene. Many thanks. Geoff M.
12 February 2010 at 19:44 #48596
Jeff Dayman
Participant
@jeffdayman43397
UK white spirits = North America Varsol
14 February 2010 at 23:22 #48668
russell
Participant
@russell
and as far as i can work out, = australian Mineral Turpentine, aka ‘turps’…
15 February 2010 at 08:38 #48674
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
russell, white spirits is about half way up the chain between kero and petrol, it’ll be the same on your side of the ditch as here in NZ. Ian S C
15 February 2010 at 10:42 #48677
Frank Dolman
Participant
@frankdolman72357
     Important for use as thinner for paint is the fact that White Spirit

all evaporates. Kerosene ( paraffin oil ) leaves a thin oily deposit

   of low lubricity. This interferes with the drying of paint and is also

   is a nuisance if left in bearings.

     At one time White Spirit was also called Turps Substitute but I

     believe that this is now a dfferent but very similar product. In

    B&Q, you can often find them on adjacent shelves.
15 February 2010 at 22:42 #48708
Geoffrey Morgan 1
Participant
@geoffreymorgan1
Thanks to all for the reply concerning the term for white spirits. Varsol is a particular brand of mineral spirits in the U.S. (I believe Varsol belongs to the progeny of ol’ John D. Rockefeller and the Standard Oil Company) I thought as much, but as is most usual in these cases, I had some doubts. Varsol is also a variation of Stoddard Solvent. There may be slight differences as to component mixtures and specific gravities, but they are interchangeably similar. Primarily used to thin standard enamels (not synthetics) and as a general degrease agent.

As to the actual subject of disassembling drill chucks, I must confess that I have been successful a couple of times as well as rupturing the outer sleeve in at least one case. Confessions of someone with a hydraulic press and not enough patience! It has progressed to the point where the replacement parts are almost too expensive and difficult to obtain to make rebuilding worthwhile. Of course, if one is lucky, there is e-bay and web sites like this one. Regards, Geoff M.
16 February 2010 at 18:34 #48723
Peter Tucker
Participant
@petertucker86088
Hi Geoffrey,

I have heard a mecanic call white sprits “britolite” (not sure of the spelling). Hope this may help.

Peter.
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