I really like mine – chosen for more-or-less the same reasons as you outline above.
I discarded the capscrews for the chucks and use studs with nuts – whilst it is slightly more of a fiddle to fit nuts than simply screw a chuck on, having a 'reverse' capability is one of those things that one finds uses for once you have it;
..and like so many manual things, one's body and brain soon 'remember' the action after a while and it becomes less of a trial..
Also the register (on mine) is a creditable fit which means that once the chuck is located on it, it only takes pressure from the side of one's thumb to stop it falling off until the first nut is started (- by which I mean that one doesn't have to support the full weight of it whilst starting the nuts).
There are some gaps in the Imperial threads, I don't use them much so haven't analysed the possibilities, but the 'box is driven by (supplied) translation gears in a train on studs on a banjo, so I think if you can't find an approximation by mixing/matching/juggling some of the gears and internal ratios, I don't think it would be to hard to lash-up a couple of phenolic gears – they are Mod.1 – at least that is my plan if I ever get stumped..
I originally thought it would be the thread cutting capability that I'd find to be the best thing about the 'box, but as far as day to day lathework goes, it is of course having a decent range of selectable finefeeds – what a revelation.. ..well, it was to me, anyway..
Although feed actuation is independent of screw-cutting, the functions 'share' a shaft, i.e. drive is by sliding key in a slot in the leadscrew, not a dedicated shaft of it's own.
I think in more general terms, as a size-for-size replacement for a 7, and where size is a limiting factor, it'd be hard to beat – it is nice to use, quick, clean, convenient, and I like the controls.
Pictures of legend plates and gear train in my album 'GH600', if you want to know anything further just ask..